I am currently working on a RR diorama based upon the film "Once Upon a Time in the West" kit bashing Bachmann cars and building an old locomotive " The General ".Hope you guys like it. Cheers! John.
Railroad Dioramas In "G" Scale
JohnReid
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And it is simple to use,just brush or sponge it on the surface to be
painted and the cracks just appear.The thicker the application of paint
the smaller the cracks.For the barnsiding look use Silverwood stain as
an undercoat.Individual flakes can be picked off using an xacto
knife,tape or gentle knife scrapping .The jury is still out in regard to
using this technique on plastic but I will keep you guys informed after
further experimentation.
painted and the cracks just appear.The thicker the application of paint
the smaller the cracks.For the barnsiding look use Silverwood stain as
an undercoat.Individual flakes can be picked off using an xacto
knife,tape or gentle knife scrapping .The jury is still out in regard to
using this technique on plastic but I will keep you guys informed after
further experimentation.
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638 Posts
The look that I am trying to achieve here is a bleached, sun baked surface that may have seen some rain sometime in the past.The nail or screw holes were made with a sharp needle in a pattern that indicates some kind of framing structure beneath.I deliberately did not line them up in rows like rivets.I want it to look like it was done by a human hand not machines.
After punching in the holes I came back with a sharp HB graphite pencil and twisted a little graphite into each hole to create a nail or screw head.The graphite works well as it has a slight shine to it like it was metal.
I then took some very watery raw umber and with a bristle toothbrush I flicked on a spray of paint to look like crud ,mud or fly sh.t etc...Then with a small round brush and some very watery burnt sienna I touched every nail head and the wood swelled back to level again and soaked up a little rust staining.Try to be subtle when using this technique.Now I will do a little shading with chalk pastels in all the nooks and crannys.I do all my old barnsiding the same way using birch coffee sticks or tongue depressors.Do not seal the wood prior to painting.
This is a long tedious process but I think that it is worth the effort in the end.
After punching in the holes I came back with a sharp HB graphite pencil and twisted a little graphite into each hole to create a nail or screw head.The graphite works well as it has a slight shine to it like it was metal.
I then took some very watery raw umber and with a bristle toothbrush I flicked on a spray of paint to look like crud ,mud or fly sh.t etc...Then with a small round brush and some very watery burnt sienna I touched every nail head and the wood swelled back to level again and soaked up a little rust staining.Try to be subtle when using this technique.Now I will do a little shading with chalk pastels in all the nooks and crannys.I do all my old barnsiding the same way using birch coffee sticks or tongue depressors.Do not seal the wood prior to painting.
This is a long tedious process but I think that it is worth the effort in the end.
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638 Posts
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/G scale trains/?action=view¤t=Gscale093.jpg
(Click image to go to Photobucket album)
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y2...ale093.jpg
Hi John, I have tried to get your link to work, but with only partial sucess - if the lower (above) link is copied and insertyed in the address line that will go to the photo I think you wanted to display.
Looking at the ID I think that the '20%20's' in it (which equal spaces in Microsoft code) may be at fault - the program that MLS uses dos have troubles with them!
At least with a slight bit of copying it is now available!
Yours Peter Bunce - moderator
(Click image to go to Photobucket album)
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y2...ale093.jpg
Hi John, I have tried to get your link to work, but with only partial sucess - if the lower (above) link is copied and insertyed in the address line that will go to the photo I think you wanted to display.
Looking at the ID I think that the '20%20's' in it (which equal spaces in Microsoft code) may be at fault - the program that MLS uses dos have troubles with them!
At least with a slight bit of copying it is now available!
Yours Peter Bunce - moderator
Joined
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638 Posts
A lot of work to make what looks like an old chicken coop !
![Image]()
This section has yet to be treated with the burnt sienna rusty nail heads look.Although they are hardly noticeable they do add a lot to the finished product.When weathering try to treat each area as a artist would do when painting.Make it interesting for the eye and try not to line things up in rows and right angles etc....or use monotone colors. Treat each piece as an individual part of the whole and put your best effort into it no matter how insignificant it may seem at the time.Avoid trying to rush through the things you don't particularly like doing.
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638 Posts
Here is a cool old wood study pic ! The paint looks like it was once a
red color that has now faded to orange.The surface looks like it is
beyond the cracked paint stage and only a little of the paint stain
remains.In this damp environment and a little greenish moss has
developed where the wood nears the earths surface.Not a worry in the
desert.
red color that has now faded to orange.The surface looks like it is
beyond the cracked paint stage and only a little of the paint stain
remains.In this damp environment and a little greenish moss has
developed where the wood nears the earths surface.Not a worry in the
desert.
Joined
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638 Posts
Here is one of those circumstances in modeling where a compromise of some kind has to be made.The bench is to scale but the wall of the car is a little too thick which moves the bench seat a little too far into the aisle.(no conductor is that slim) Lucky for me that all the benches are not required to be side by side
as in a normal railway car.I can cheat a bit in the arrangement of the benches and it won't be noticeable.This is one of the difficulties you run into when scatchbuilding by eye alone.
as in a normal railway car.I can cheat a bit in the arrangement of the benches and it won't be noticeable.This is one of the difficulties you run into when scatchbuilding by eye alone.
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6,071 Posts
John - if you remember from the beginning of this thread, the UBB tags don't work for posting photos. You need to use HTML to post them here. Go back and look at your first few posts in this thread.
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638 Posts
You know in reviewing my pics of Sergio's set I came to realize that he cheated a bit in this same area.The door is not in the center of the car and the seating is creatively arranged to suit the scene.The master himself was not above making some compromises too!
While on the subject of scale I was wondering how high that braking wheel that is located on the platform should be in relation to the height of the man?I think mine looks overscale in height.I am not too concerned about the diameter of the tubing or the diameter of the wheel itself as that could vary a bit I guess but the height must have been standard.
While on the subject of scale I was wondering how high that braking wheel that is located on the platform should be in relation to the height of the man?I think mine looks overscale in height.I am not too concerned about the diameter of the tubing or the diameter of the wheel itself as that could vary a bit I guess but the height must have been standard.
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