[Greg Elmassian]

What Dennis said.

In fact, you need to be really careful with greases that are actually conductive, they often cause shorts..

I know it might seem counter-intuitive, but even though most greases are a dielectric (insulator), electrical contact still occurs. The main reason for grease is to keep out junk AND halt oxidation by not exposing the surfaces to the air.

There's several threads on this.

For rail joiners, a lithium-based grease with moly in it is what I recommend... commonly known as wheel bearing grease, a big tub for cheap at the auto parts store.

Greg

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but is best in terms of most expensive? (the stuff is $14 for a squeeze tube) (Wheel bearing grease will be a lifetime supply for about 5-8 bucks)

Don't get upset Andre, just using the word "best" means you are inviting comparison.

Seriously, it's good stuff, but is there anything in it that makes it better? I have actually found out that it can dry out somewhat, not as long lasting as the wheel bearing grease, which is formulated for more extreme conditions.

Moly vs. graphite is pretty much a wash (although I prefer moly).

Really the lubricating qualities are pretty much of no concern, graphite or molybdenum... almost any grease will work.

One thing I have never tried, but experienced, is "waterproof grease", really tacky and really will keep water out... just really hard to clean off your fingers and clothes... learned about it in college when the plumber came to repair our hot water heating system in the dorm and used my washcloth as a rag... never could wash that stuff out of it!

Greg

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Nope, the graphite does not conduct at all in this case. You can prove it to yourself with a meter.

I'll buy everything else you say, I have some of it.

The graphite is basically in suspension, so no conductivity. Actually molybdenum conducts better than graphite, but nothing is conducting, only the metal.

It's really funny in a way, because when LGB was challenged, and the grease was proven to be non-conductive, one person from LGB claimed that the graphite would conduct when the little pieces of it were squashed under pressure.

(That's actually the last thing you want, because you want (and get) metal to metal.)

But I respect that you say you get better performance from the grease.

Regards, Greg

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Yes, other than real conductive greases, which are usually silver or copper laden, ALL greases are dielectric. The stuff commonly referred as di-electric auto grease is normally silicon grease, not great lubricating capability, just a grease that lasts a long time, does not run, does not dry out and (like all greases) keeps out air and moisture.

I'd recommend though, a grease with more lubrication, that's designed to be slippery. In my experience it works better when pulling stuff apart later. Thus, the greases with a slippery additive like graphite, moly or both.

Greg

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Yep, I believe Axel heard about it from me. I am still doing long term testing to see if it works better than good old moly/graphite grease.

One thing is that it "washes out" of joiners more easily than the normal grease. Does it stay in well enough? Will be pulling some track apart this summer to compare.

It's not formulated for brass or anything else than aluminum, so it's unclear if it has any unique chemical properties that give it an advantage over grease.

Greg

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Steve, I'd like to talk you out of your over the joiner clamps. The rail joiners do not have very good contact with the rails. Clamps should contact the rails if you want electricity to flow through them.

Joiners actually help channel dirt down to wedge between the rails and joiner. Clamps contact the base with a much better contact area and just work better.

Please consider dumping the joiners and replacing with "normal" clamps.

On most track (LGB is tougher) it's easy to remove the joiner and add a clamp without moving the track at all.

Regards, Greg

 

[Greg Elmassian]

I have to laugh, the first time I tried to pull a LGB joiner off I thought I was going crazy, forgot to look underneath!

They make it really difficult. I can remove aristo/usat ones easily with a small screwdriver. I wind up bending them open, and then twisting them under the rail and out, but I throw them away anyways.

I've seen too many joiners crack, or not fit right, etc. so they are junk to me. (as compared to a quality rail clamp).

Greg

 

[Greg Elmassian]

That's certainly good results. Do you have the part number for that version of NoAlox? Their site is a bit confusing sometimes, and no one stocks the non-aluminum stuff here locally.

Were those indeed sitting for 5 years? Great data for all of us.

Greg

 

[Greg Elmassian]

So you use the white stuff with titanium oxide in it?

Interesting that they use titanium oxide for predominantly copper connections and zinc for predominantly aluminum ones...

Thanks Neil... will follow up...

update: did more reading... several publications use the same chemicals... Burndy Penetrox E seems to be the stuff

http://www.burndy.com/products/prod...bitor.aspx


Greg

 

[Greg Elmassian]

That's what I'm doing... although since it does not oxidize the same way, any lithium grease should work.

Since most are SS screws in SS clamps, you also need to think about seizing (same metals can sieze)... so anti-sieze would probably be the ultimate, but messy. You can get anti-sieze at any auto parts store.

Greg

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Just a follow up... I do talk to a lot of people, mostly off forum, private email.

The vast majority of people are unhappy with the over the joiner clamps and wished they had gotten the regular clamps.

Greg