G Scale Model Train Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all
I remember seeing an article somewhere about hammering stakes into the ground then laying out and attaching the pvc electric conduit to the stakes and then attaching the track to the pvc to form a solid foundation. Then fill and ballast can be brought up to it. I looked in the archives and didn't come up with much. Has anyone used this process with success and can you direct me to instructions. I have a lot of straightaways that could benefit. The pipe I have seen doesn't seem to bend that much for my 5' - 8' curves.
Thanks, Todd
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,960 Posts
Todd,

That's the system I wrote up for Garden Railways a few years ago (June 2006 - Feb 2007). If you don't have those issues, you can download a .pdf of the entire series. (There's a charge, I forget how much. I don't get any revenue from the downloads.) Terl Robinson was the inspiration for the system, and he recently posted here about an improvement he made to it.
http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/9/tpage/1/view/topic/postid/59569/Default.aspx#60043

It's worked fairly well for me, though you most certainly want to use re-bar. The plastic garden stakes I used in a few locations pop up every spring, and most have been replaced. Also, make sure you've got a solid connection between it and the PVC pipe. Some of the nylon zip ties I used have come loose. Wire is better. Re-bar wire is usually sold right next to the re-bar, for something like $4 for a very long spool. The added advantage of that is that the wire diameter is PERFECT for truss rods, and is easily threaded to 0-80.

The bigger problem I've encountered is the track wanting to tilt here and there. Terl's innovation linked to above seems to remedy that problem, and I'll be digging out the problem areas on my line next spring to try to flatten things out just a bit.

If your 5' curves are diameters, not radii, then you may have troubles. The stuff's flexible, but not that flexible. Eight-foot diameter should work okay.

Later,

K
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hi
Yes ladder roadbed is a way to make it work but I was thinking more along the lines of the system that east broad top used and yes I did see the articles and that recent post on the upgrades. I am looking to make improvements this spring once everything thaws out and am doing some early research to get some ideas on how best to construct it. There was an article in GR mag about a guy that used angled metal similar but heavier than corner bead and cut and bent it all then screwed it together fro a very strong base. He also drove rods into the ground but I don't think he used concrete. I use LGB 15000 and 16000 on my layout.
Brian I don't know what turfboard is. how does it last outside and is it expensive?? The hotwheels video you put together was awesome too bad it got too hot at the end and the car was destroyed that little rocket should have been hung in the smithsonian.
Thanks
Todd
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,167 Posts
Tuf Board (that's tough) is the Home Depot brand of urethane foam synthetic wood. It should last forever. It comes in a variety of 1x sizes including 1"x2"x8'. I buy the 1x6x12' and rip it down into 4 strips. That size gives me 24' of ladder for a $20 board. Add in screws and 2"x2" PT wood spacers and it runs about a buck a foot.
Wish I could take credit for the hot wheels but I think those boys who did it are over in Europe.

-Brian
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
387 Posts
Todd,

I used that method for the first loop in my layout. Construction log is here:

http://archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=44257

No issues so far, its been down two years now but we don’t get any snow to speak of, or frost heave. One corner is lifting where I didn’t attach the track – the usual heat expansion thing going on. I’ll install expansion joints in that area and fix the track down properly sometime, its not really bothering me at this stage.

I also wet and packed the crusher fines in hard to the level of the top of the conduit before laying any track so that is really the track support. No tilting as Kevin describes, yet... Laying out the track line with the conduit gave really nice transitions, esp if you use TrainLi or similar.

Cheers
Neil
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top