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No, I mean measure the wheels and multiply by 32 and see how they match the prototype which is 40".
In 1:32 this would be exactly 1-1/8" in diameter....
So what do they measure?
Greg
Greg,
On my calculator 40 divided by 32 is 1.25.
1 ¼".
Another perfect calculation?
Cheers,
David
 

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Oldnoob,
You are doing a fantastic job.
Do you ever wish that you had just started from scratch?
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Oldnoob,
You are doing a fantastic job.
Do you ever wish that you had just started from scratch?
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
Thank You.
I actually wish i had a milling machine and the knowledge to build brass engines. I can solder knickknacks and pollywacks but thats about as far as my ability goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Progressing slowly. May take a break for a while. i seemed to have picked up a horrible flubug can't do anything without sweat just poring off me.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
That's a great effect. Can you share the circuit diagram by any chance?
Robert, this was the tutorial video i used to make the strobe circuit. However i found that i had to screw around with different capacitors and resistors other than the ones used in the video. i used a 1000uf capacitor and 460 ohm resistor every thing else is the same. I am thinking of upping the capacitor to 1200uf for a slower strobe.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Bit frustrating.
I didn't have a long enough brass wire for the side handrails so i tried some steel wire i had,
and of course i can't get a solder flow to it.
( i live in a remote small town and good hobby supplies are no where to be found )
It's frustrating because i had planned for the railing to provide structural support and alignment for the stanchions.
So i guess i will have to make sure the stanchions are secure where they attach to the body of the locomotive.
 

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Robert, this was the tutorial video i used to make the strobe circuit. However i found that i had to screw around with different capacitors and resistors other than the ones used in the video. i used a 1000uf capacitor and 460 ohm resistor every thing else is the same. I am thinking of upping the capacitor to 1200uf for a slower strobe.
thank you for the linked video. Nice little weekend project.
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Ok.. the detailing of the shell has come to a conclusion. I could do more but there is a point where it becomes more like work and more frustration then i draw the line.


Now i have to decide if i will give my attention to the motive power or the decals.

Decals.
I could print my own. i have the wet slide paper however being white i would still have to cut out the decals precisely, which could be annoying.
OR
I could order some online. however i have not found any under $40 which is too rich for me and for this project.

I may put the decals on hold and direct my attention to the frame and motive power.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
That has to be there understatement of the year!
A wonderful transformation.
Love those stanchions.
How exactly did you fold them?
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
Thank You.
The Stanchions are made of 1/16 K&S brass square tubing that i had in stock. I took a dremel with cutoff blade and just basically ground out one side which made it into a U-channel ( i could not find 1/16 u-channel anywhere so i have to make my own ) then i flattened one end and rolled it.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Originally i had planned to use the stock frame just reinforce it a bit,, but i found it sets the engine up about 3/8" too high.
So i made my own frame out of some 3" flatbar
 

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Discussion Starter #59
The NW2 motor block sets the engine up way to high. Not sure what to do now, gonna have to think on it.
Wish i had went with the Lionel blocks now.
I could mod the original newray bogie blocks ,, but sadly i destroyed one in an attempt to make something else.
 

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Modify the chassis not the trucks... you can recess the bearing surface, cut out the chassis and move that area up.

The problem is you used a flat piece of steel... go back to the stock chassis, cut out the plastic area and recess it further into the chassis.

Greg
 
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