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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so this will be a very slowly progressing mod log of converting the 1/32 New-Ray Lights and Sounds Diesel into a somewhat acceptable 1 gauge model gp35
Yes this is technically "Polishing a Turd" but in all fairness they do make jewelry out of fossilized Dino poo.

Day one: Receiving the toy and taking some before shots.








Ok that's it for today. More to come. :)
 

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I had one of those a few years with thoughts of the same plan to make a 1/32 gp35. Whilst it looks the part once you compare it with a drawing you'll find its been selectively compressed. For mine I felt it was too much work to achieve the end result I wanted, so sold it on.



Collin Stewart
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had one of those a few years with thoughts of the same plan to make a 1/32 gp35. Whilst it looks the part once you compare it with a drawing you'll find its been selectively compressed. For mine I felt it was too much work to achieve the end result I wanted, so sold it on.



Collin Stewart
Yep. Thats something i felt was too much for me to try and correct as well. so im going try and ignore a lot of the incorrect areas
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Yes interesting, at 1:32, what do those wheels scale out to? Anywhere near the prototype?


Greg
Well the bogies seem to be a modified recasting of the Lionel Large scale diesel so scale wheels would be about 1.20" - 1.24"
A aristocraft NW2 motorblock will line up with bogies but the wheels would be a tad too large . Holes can be cut in the frame for the Lionel motorblocks.
Still exploring options in this area.

Interestingly the box that holds the wheel sets is roughly the same size as the Lionel motor block.
Some of the similarities between this engine and Lionel engines is too strong to be a coincidence.

After dwelling on it.... i think the spoke wheels are intended for children so that they can enjoy the wheel movement when playing with it.
 

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No, I mean measure the wheels and multiply by 32 and see how they match the prototype which is 40".


In 1:32 this would be exactly 1-1/8" in diameter....



So what do they measure?


Greg
 

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Should be a good project and is a good way to build your skills with scratchbuilding, adding details and kitbashing to be closer to real. Many years ago I started off with a Life-Like HO GP38-2 and modified it until I was happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Decided that the molded in horns are Unacceptable and will have to go.


So i fabricated a new horn set from some brass screws and scrap
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Frustrating .. I had hopes of using these aristocraft RS-3 blocks ... but they are even longer than i thought, nearly an inch too long.

I can do one of four things.
1. Modify , with some great effort, and shorten these blocks.
2. Find some Alco bogies (yuck)
3. Find someone willing to trade for NW2 or lionel blocks.
4. Leave this as a unpowered unit... which sort of defeats my goal.
 

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With the sideframes and power:
1. Easy way - buy the USA Trains GP38 trucks, swap in with few modifications. If they fit.
2. Alternatively, disassemble the power blocks and trucks, see if you can put the RS3 ones into the Geep ones. Check clearances / wiring / suitability / dry fit / test run under power to sort out binding and smooth operation / modify sideframes to match the GP38(-2/3), doesn't work make your own power unit and fit the sideframes to the power block. Test fit / test run / paint, detail and fix in place - Bob's your Uncle.

I have trodden that same path - I'm making a steam loco atm and re-purposed the Bachman 4-6-0 Annie power unit to fit a SA Railways F Class Loco. which has been designed from the rails up. Plus working on a NR diesel drive unit. There are no commercial parts for them in largescale.

Nice work on the horns btw. Are they brass bugle headed screws used for fixing plasterboard / Gyprock? (Drywall)
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
With the sideframes and power:
1. Easy way - buy the USA Trains GP38 trucks, swap in with few modifications. If they fit.
2. Alternatively, disassemble the power blocks and trucks, see if you can put the RS3 ones into the Geep ones. Check clearances / wiring / suitability / dry fit / test run under power to sort out binding and smooth operation / modify sideframes to match the GP38(-2/3), doesn't work make your own power unit and fit the sideframes to the power block. Test fit / test run / paint, detail and fix in place - Bob's your Uncle.

I have trodden that same path - I'm making a steam loco atm and re-purposed the Bachman 4-6-0 Annie power unit to fit a SA Railways F Class Loco. which has been designed from the rails up. Plus working on a NR diesel drive unit. There are no commercial parts for them in largescale.

Nice work on the horns btw. Are they brass bugle headed screws used for fixing plasterboard / Gyprock? (Drywall)
Thanks for the tip.
I went on the EB and found some shorter ones i think they are for the USA 44 ton switcher. the measurement is perfect.
With regard the horns, The screws are just brass wood screws that i turned down with a drill and a dremel
 

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I think you will find the USAT 44 tonner or the NW-2 blocks to be shorter wheelbase.


Don't know if you can find them cheap, you can definitely buy them new, but the title of this topic is "Project Cheep Jeep" so I am not recommending you buy new.


Also realize you have a 1:32 loco, so the any of the Aristo blocks will be too big.


Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I think you will find the USAT 44 tonner or the NW-2 blocks to be shorter wheelbase.


Don't know if you can find them cheap, you can definitely buy them new, but the title of this topic is "Project Cheep Jeep" so I am not recommending you buy new.


Also realize you have a 1:32 loco, so the any of the Aristo blocks will be too big.


Greg
Thanks Greg
I was able to find some non-lionel blocks that have perfect wheel spacing but i could not find any information on them aside from the identification as "100-x2" which i suspect is a USA trains 44ton motorblock.
i put my aristocraft blocks up for sale and someone snatched those up immediately so i just reinvested the money into the NW2 blocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Ok so i was running low on Isopropyl but i did have a gallon if cheep Chinese ethyl hand sanitizer shoved away in the shelf because it stank so bad i could not use it. So i thought..
"what the heck i'll give it a try"
As you can see it sorta did work, after an 2 hours it softened most of the gray paint and some of the red but left the stamped paint intact for the most part.. I should of been more patient I'm wondering what would of happened if i had left it over night. :D

Honestly though, this ethyl hand sanitizer is nasty i can't believe they approved it for skin contact the smell is pure toxicity:p
 

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If the block you found is the one pictured in post #14, that is definitely a USAT block.


The 44 tonner blocks have a projection at one end for mounting the coupler (one of the few that are not body mounted), so I am pretty sure it is an NW-2.


Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If the block you found is the one pictured in post #14, that is definitely a USAT block.


The 44 tonner blocks have a projection at one end for mounting the coupler (one of the few that are not body mounted), so I am pretty sure it is an NW-2.


Greg
Ah ok. this is welcome news
 
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