G Scale Model Train Forum banner

POC's Octagon Water Tank - 13 Photos

7K views 28 replies 22 participants last post by  Richard Smith 
#1 ·

This tank is unusual for its octagon shape. It is based on the type of water tank used on the Sumpter Valley R.R. in Oregon.

Originally the tank was to be placed at Bandon on the POC but its size was a bit bulky for that location so it was swapped with the water column at Coos Bay. A brief construction log follows:



The innards are cedar and pt pieces 4" wide on the outside. The 2x6's were run through the tablesaw with the blade at a 22.5 degree angle and then cut to length on a power miter saw. They were glued together with "Welder" contact cement and left to cure overnight.



Sheet PVC was glued and brad nailed to the bottom of the tank and the first framing elements added. They are 1/2" square cedar.



Legs are also cedar and were glued and brad nailed.



A view turned upright.



The tank fitted to the legs. They are very solid even with the weight of the tank on top.



The legs are stained with Behlen's spray stain, Dark Mahogany".



The tank is sheathed with individual cedar strips, glued and brad nailed. The top is enclosed with sheet PVC as the bottom was.



After painting the sheathing a simple rugged roof framework is made from scrap cedar cut to about a 30 degree angle and glued & nailed in place. A center knob was included for a little extra eye appeal. Also a white trim was used over the joints on the tank and emphasize its octagonal shape.



Clear acrylic was used for the roof sections. This material not only stands up well but it is very helpful to be able to see the supporting frames underneath when securing it. It was glued and nailed. No nail gun here because it might shatter the acrylic. Instead guide holes were drilled through to the wooden understructure and the brads individually nailed in place. It doesn't take many as the glue alone would probably hold the roof firmly in place. The brads are just a bit of extra for shear strength.



The tank and legs were masked off and the roof first painted with Bondo black primer. Then a texture coat was added; two coats. Ordinarily I would paint the roof assembly before installing it to avoid masking but in this case I would have lost the advantage of being able to see through it when attaching it. You have to weigh the cost one way or the other depending on the circumstances.



Frame for the spout was cut to fit, prestained and attached. I don't remember who made the spout, it's not a Hartford, but the weights were Hartford left over from a previous project. The chain is from Ozark as are the pulleys (C&S brake chain guides).



The ladder is from an Aristo water tank. Its supports are 7/8" scale lower brake staff supports as are the grab irons on top. The hatch is a 1:20.3 locomotive cab hatch, all from Ozark. It pays to check other scales for useable parts. I prefer 7/8" scale spitoons for 1:20.3 scale for example.

You will notice there are no bands on the tank. That is because it is an enclosed type. What you see is the protective covering and not the actual water tank which is inside (prototypically speaking). I left off the water infeed pipe and its covering as it doesn't show much anyway. Of course if it bugs me later I can easily add it. The Sumpter's tanks had a rather obtrusive type that fed from the bottom and side of the tank. I would use a much simpler one coming up to the bottom center. After all this is a POC prototype!

I think it makes a handsome structure and a relief from the usual round or squarish types. The Sumpter Valley had several such tanks some like this one and some completely enclosed. The construction is very robust and the rectangular tank at the engine terminal was built the same way over 4 years ago and has been as close to bullet proof as anything I've ever built.
 
See less See more
13
#5 ·
Beautiful job, Richard. But, that's what we've come to expect from you - once again, we're not disappointed.

I'm also impressed by how natural its setting looks, especially in the last photo. Are the ground cover and weeds in the background some sort of living flora or are they artificial? (I don't mean the trees in the far background, rather, what's on the layout itself.)
 
#6 ·
Richard, you never disappoint. Anothger work of art, er, Richard. Looking at the photos, you have got yourself a terrific railroad there. And you are on my short list of super modelers, too.

BTW, we went to the Maui Hyatt for sushi and our waitress, Autumn, was from an Oregon coastal town 20 miles or so from you. The name of the place escapes me, but is there a Harbor? Falls? I dunno. Guess I should listen better.
 
#12 ·
Very nice job as always.. I may have to rebuild my three that are getting rust on the bands. Don' t want to spring a bad leak. Great idea ( No bands.)
 
#16 ·
Thank you all....appreciate the comments!

Russ,
Dimensions: 4" across the face of each segment; 10" overall diameter of tank; 8" height of tank; 14.25" height tank & legs; 17.5" overall height excluding the spike on top. I'll get a photo of an engine in front as I can weather permitting.

Jack,
All the weeds are real believe it or not. I found a neat moss that shoots out little sprouts when it's happy that are a perfect size for weeds. It's green in the Spring and turns that golden color later in the year. It's the small mounded type that likes to grow between cement segments in a driveway, etc. I transplanted a very limited amount on the RR and found by accident that it liked the 2 parts dirt to 1 part dry mortar mix that I used to put a crust on a dirt road to prevent any growth on it. So of course it put out spores on its own and now grows profusely on the road and a parking area by the cabinet shop. hehe! I plan on preparing a couple of beds and transplanting much of it later. The dirt btw is not topsoil but just our regular ol' dirt which is a very sandy clay type.

Joe,
"Harbor" refers to the Brookings-Harbor area which is about 50 miles south of us and just a few miles from the California border.

Bruce,
I'd like to accomodate you but I've got several of the town buildings removed for much needed maintenance through the winter. This will be their first in 4 years and while mostly cosmetic really need the work done. I still need to replace the roundhouse roof. The temporary fix I put on the front of the roof is in bad shape. If I hadn't goofed on that section originally the problems would only be minor as the rest of the roof isn't in too bad of shape. That repair will have to be made outdoors so it'll have to wait until there's enough good weather to de-roof it for several days.

Jim,
OOPS!!! I had intended to add a gauge but plumb forgot. Thanks for pointing that out. I also need a pull for the spout as Ol' Toad mentioned as well.
 
#18 ·
Hehe! Thanks Dave. Just for your info as a member of the SOB (Smith Outside Benchwork) club: notice the footplate beneath the front legs of the tank? There is another at the rear. The extended portion will allow for the tank to be screwed down to the benchwork and will be lightly covered by ballast. No worry about it being blown over in a heavy wind! :)
 
#21 ·
Richard (S.) I agree with Richard (R.) I also would like to see a short treatise on how you achieve such natural looking ground cover (I like your rock formations, too.)

I figured it had to be some sort of natural vegetation - not that I doubt your modeling skills - it just looks so "real." I have a lot of moss growth in the area of my eventual layout also. Perhaps, when the time comes, you could send me a bit of that particular species that I might be able to cultivate for my own use.
 
#22 ·
Leon,
The acrylic is cut in a tablesaw mostly but I just used the power miter for the roof segments. While I have a blade especially made to cut acrylic any good sharp 60 tp 80 tooth carbide blade will do. Just be sure the material is held firmly down on the table. If you allow it to float up even a small amount it will crack and shatter. Otherwise a sharp blade cuts it like butter. The difference between the dedicated acrylic blade and any other is that there is a crusty edge left on the cut edge that has to be plucked off where the acrylic has melted from the regular blade.

Rich,
Hadn't thought of a thread on ground cover since my whole RR is on raised benchwork and I only use mosses but that might not be a bad idea. I'll think on it and see if I can come up with enough to make it worthwhile. Maybe next Spring.....
 
#24 ·
Nice job Richard.

The prototypes that you choose to model all fit so well together. Reminds me of the water tank & oil tank at Coos Bay, looking at the finished product one would never guess that they're made from such heavy construction methods. As always thanks for sharing.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top