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POC Progress Report Part 3 - Jul 2008 - 12 photos

6173 Views 18 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Richard Smith
This is a continuation of the posts from last year, Nov., 2007. Progress is a bit behind because of a longer and wetter winter than usual. Link to Part 2 below.

Step framework with hardware cloth (hereafter called screening) installed. Steps better hold the loose earth and rocks in place.

Landscape fabric laid over screening and stapled in place.

End view. Doesn't have to be neat but needs to cover everything without leaks for loose soil to trickle through.

Here soil and rocks are being placed. I use the natural dirt from here on the property although I strain it through 1/4" screen to eliminate large chunks and vegetation, etc. A small layer of soil to level the bed and give a surface for the rocks to sink securely into and then more soil.

Here's a close up. I try to keep the colors consistant without any especially large variation. It looks more natural that way I think. Sifted dirt is poured over the rocks and allowed to settle naturally.

A new section of cribbing for installation adjacent to the parts already shown. Looks too white to be cedar but it is. Entire structure was brad nailed with 18 ga. 5/8" brads using the brad gun. No glue. Don't use a pin nailer here as they won't hold over the long haul without glue.

The same cribbing freshly stained with Behlen Dark Mahogany from a spray can. This is actually a first for me as I've never had need or opportunity to use cribbing on a model railroad before. I really like the look.

More screening applied. Fabric comes next.

Test fit for the cribbing. Maybe the framing configuration makes more sense now?

Retaining walls in place and backfilling is in progress.

Cribbing in place and backfilled. More on the tunnel later.

An overview of the cribbing and much of the backfill rock and dirt.

Part 4 will properly "plant" most of this section up to the tunnel.
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Hehe Dave

The soil here holds a considerable slope once its settled in. It's very loose now but after the rains come it'll settle down and I'll have to add some to it a couple of times then almost no maintenance except picking leaves off. Welcome anytime Rick!
BTW Did you get my email?
Just tell the wife you're building her planters to make it easier for her to tend the miniature plants for her elevated rock garden. Incidently wouldn't that be a neat place for a "small" bit of trackage? ;) :D Dave has started a wonderful raised layout mostly along his fenceline. Check it out and maybe he can advise you on obtaining right of way priviledges. :)

You have got to be one of the most perceptive people I've ever come across. You read me like a book. hehe! Maybe that's why you're so good at putting them together. The slough and the hillside along with the back-curve are of course scenic blocks separating the Coos Bay area from the next town, Bandon, and serve to give an illusion of distance just like you said.

The shed in the "Buildings Forum" was needed not only for interest at that location but its size was dictated by the available space and a small structure tends to exagerate the height of the background hills. Too, I wanted something of modest size for the track to run behind instead of in front of without making it inaccessible. You will note that except in the Coos Bay yard I have kept the track away from the edge a few inches to better integrate the track "into" the scenery instead of merely going by it. I would also like to angle the track more in relation to the edge of the benchwork but this has proved difficult due to the limited depth. Track is of little use if you can't reach it.

Thanks for the comments.
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Thanks much. I'll be interested in seeing your cribbing. If I can be of help please let me know.

The hidden storage sheds were covered in Part One....http://archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=49650

The PDF files were done by Steve Conkle. I didn't do them. You'll have to ask Steve about future files. :)

Modern cribbing is indeed mostly concrete. In fact it has been done that way for many years now. Concrete can be replicated by painting plastic strips concrete grey and gluing them in place as I've done in wood. You'd have to round over the corners a bit so they look cast as opposed to simply cut like wood. I think that'd be a lot easier than trying to cast the cribbing unless you want to really get drastic and use real concrete. After seeing your megaton tunnel project it wouldn't surprise me of course. hehe! ;) :D :)
Thanks much Steve for bringing us up to date.

I had originally given thought to including some dwarf plants on the RR until I discovered they weren't needed due to the narrow benchwork and the natural background here. I do have several varieties of moss on the layout.

As to larger plants you can leave them in pots as Jerry has suggested. You won't need excessively deep soil on the RR that way. Merely provide holes through the top with brackets or shelves hung beneath the normal benchwork top to rest the pots on. Then you can extend fabric into the sides of the pots and run dirt right up to them to hide the tops. Due to the drainage afforded by elevated benchwork they probably will have to be watered more often than if they were on the ground. The benchwork itself would provide easy installation for drip irrigation as the lines could be run beneath or through the joists and just popped up to nozzles or sprayers where needed.

Another way for potted background trees would be to place them behind a fence(model) or other scenic block to hide the pots thus making them easily removeable for tending or winter storage inside if needed. If you follow the suggested methods for deck construction in your area for the framework it should be plenty strong to support many plants. I've gone to 16" centers on joists and leg support every 4 feet and it's solid as a rock.
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