G Scale Model Train Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
350 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
... with at least one long string of posts that I know of. (Possibly a web site if it exists.)

The RR in question is outdoors, built up on a frame that is covered on the bottom with hardware cloth and then landscape fabric. The RR is built on top of these layers and thus drains precipitation out the bottom. As I recall there is a long string of stock holding pens at one end.

I am looking for construction details.

We voted tonight on whether to build waist high or on the ground.  voted for on the ground, my knees and back voted for waist high. Waist high it is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
That would be Richard Smith - Port Orford Coast Railway in Oregon, I believe. Search "Richard Smith" in the various archives - not sure which has the thread you're thinking of. Maybe Track, trestles, etc
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
631 Posts
I think the one you are refering to is Richard Smith's - Port Orford, Oregon. Richard doesn't have a website but could point you to old archive topics which describe this wonderful layout in great detail. Look for his name and email him. I am sure he will more than happy to provide the information.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,334 Posts
Richard has a lot of post in the old files.   Some having to do with  building his Round House,  Some about his  Sand House.  Some to do with the building of  the layout it self.    It has got to be one of the  most beautiful layouts here on MLS.   If you got the MLS Calendar  The very first picture is from Richard.
 

·
A Steamed Elder
Joined
·
3,857 Posts
I have the .pdf file from the old archives on Richard's railroad. This is the complete pdf. I sent you an e-mail. Let me know what you want. BTW, it is 25 megs!/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/shocked.gif
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,001 Posts
I guess I'm the guy you're looking for....[:)]


I call this my "shows it all" photo. You can see the benchwork, 1/2" hardware cloth and the landscape fabric. I use 1-1/2" deep lattice roadbed as well as 2x4 "arm rests along the edge for dirt and ballast retention as well as securing the edges of the screening and fabric. This gives me landscaping on top to a nominal 1-1/2" depth. It probably isn't necessary to be this deep but I like the flexibility it gives me. The joists (cross members) are on 16" centers and lege are installed approx every 4 feet. The file below shows the details.


Below is a link to the pdf that Steve Conkle did of the first 3 or so years of the construction of the POC. It's a large file so if you only have dialup it'll take quite awhile to download.
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/stevec/POC RR/POC_Main.pdf

If you need any help feel free to email me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
350 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thank you everyone who responded, Gary I got the file from Richard's link, thanks for the offer to e-mail it. Richard, thanks for the wonderful Railroad. Richard the last two links you posted are to the home page for MLS. Ar those links to the archive?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,001 Posts
Sorry. I guess direct links to the older posts don't work anymore. I assume you'll have to search in the archives. I believe those last two posts were in the Track forum.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,315 Posts
Richard:

Your railroad base may very well serve as a template for my Phase III line, which will be the one closest to the ground. For practical reasons, I have realized that it may not be possible to construct a model directly on the ground over much of the area I have selected. This design of yours, whether set at six inches or three feet or a combination of levels (my model has rises built into it in order to simulate ground of historic significance) appears to be an ideal way to go.  

I will be discussing the proposed Phase III layout, which is a narrow gauge, in a separate post.  

My regards, 
Ron in (where the h*** is) Copper Center
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
350 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Richard, wonderful railroad, inspiring!

Gary, sorry I haven't replied to your message but between my Mac and the new software (I have started calling the site "duena" and that's with a tilde over the "n" because of all of the things it won't let me do.) I can't get that segment to work. Thanks for the offer.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,311 Posts
Richard.. you may well be the DaVinci of MLS. After reading over this thread and recalling all your previous post I am seroiusly considering using your "raised benchwork" technique on my spring expansion..

For my needs it allows for many advantages..

1) Keeping my dogs at bay and off the mainline.
2) Allowing my dogs to still have room to roam free in the yard UNDER the railroad, AND give them some more shade in the hot summer months.
3) No crawling around on hands and knees to work on the railroad.
4) No neeed for major earthworks, retaining walls and importing 20 yards of fill dirt.
5) Should be considerably less expensive (see point 4)
6) Should allow for a quicker build out.
7) Railroad operations at standing height.
8) Still able to accomodate living plants and large structures.

Downsides:
1) May appear a bit cumbersone with regards to other existing landscaping.
2) Need to sell my wife on the idea.


You have shown what a fantastic job can be done with it. I can only hope to come close to what you have accomplished.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,001 Posts
Dave,

Thanks for the too generous comments. As to fitting into the landscape, anyplace a raised planter would be acceptable raised benchwork can also. By facing the front side of the benchwork with cedar fenceboards, (you could also use rock or stone facing or even hedge), the benchwork can be made to blend into the landscape and look for all the world like a planter. On the agenda eventually I'll face mine with cut down cedar fence boards along the front side only where it shows and leave a space below, 4 or 5 inches, to allow water to flow beneath. Drainage is another advantage to benchwork as unlike a filled planter bed it doesn't dam up water runoff.

One caveat is that you have to adjust construction to allow for any potential snow load. That could mean more leg support and/or closer spaced joists. To avoid frost heave use the same construction techniques for the legs as is used for decks in your area.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,311 Posts
Richard.. In the spirit of full disclosure.

I have searched the archives and copied just about all the photos you've posted and am now reverse engineering your excellent support structure for my purpouses..

Just remember, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,001 Posts
Dave,

Full disclosure isn't really necessary unless you're running for office! ;) hehe! Take and use whatever you need and discard the rest. That's what it's there for. The photos too are free for the taking.

I wish you the best on your empire building however you decide to build it and hope to see your own construction photos soon.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top