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Has anyone successfully added DCC and sound to one of Piko's new 25 ton diesels? I'd like to get one of the analog ones but I would have to add DCC at least and sound if it'll fit. I do not like the new battery and/or RC stuff they are coming out with.

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I haven't added DCC, but I have added a MyLocoSound card to two 25tonners. One came with factory R/C and the other I added the PIKO R/C. I'm sure you could add DCC, see the attached manual. There is a fair amount of room in the cab for the electronics. There are two small circuit boards under the cab floor that make connecting add-on boards fairly easy. You're right about the stock battery, it's pretty weak. I'm adding a 2S2P Li-Ion battery to improve running time. I'm attaching a copy of the manual for a track powered loco. It will give you an idea of how much space you have and how to connect electronics. And you might want to grab a track powered unit right away. The 2022 PIKO catalog only lists battery powered 25t locos, so they may be phasing out the track powered units. Trainworld only lists the #38152ENG (Taken from a Christmas set) and the #38502. They are both DCC ready. PIKO support told me that a sound card will be available from them later this year. Nothing on price yet. If you go with MyLocoSound, be sure to get the new Premium Light Diesel (black board, it has the bell sound.)

Whatever you do, have fun with your railroad.

Ken
 

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I added a Massoth eMotion XL DCC decoder to my Piko 25 Ton battery powered Clean Machine removing their circuit board under the cab floor and replacing it with this decoder.
Since this unit had no track pickup shoes (the cleaning shoes were used there) I added under
the wheel well two Bachmann passenger car wheel wipers that work just great.

I now have a Piko Track Cleaner with lights and power all track DCC powered and controlled.
Now this engine has plenty of power and speed and now without batteries, runs forever.

I wasn’t thinking of sound but that now leaves the entire engine compartment where the
batteries were for that purpose where it should fit. I would probably use the radiator as a place to put the speaker.

For me the DCC works fine and I enjoy it.
 

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Greg
The motor nameplate on the bottom says it’s rated 0 to 24VDC at 48VA. The battery output
is 9VDC. So if run on the batteries it’s essentially running at approximately 1/3rd of its
capable speed which to me seemed somewhat slow, plus in 1 1/2 hours or so the batteries were depleted.

Of course on DCC, you get the full voltage range at full throttle (20-24V) and the increased speed which now matches all my other locos.

Adding DCC is a perfect match for this motor. It’s essentially now equal with my other
locos, has great power, and since making this modification over a year ago, it’s been
100% reliable, and super fun to run.
 

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Great information John, so motor same, just runs slower on 9v. Interesting the motor is rated approximately max 2 amps.

Thanks for settling the question, and it does make sense that they would not use 2 different motors, especially in light of how long it took to deplete the batteries.

alkaline AAA batteries, even the best, are about 1.2 amp hours, so running about 1.5 hours would say that it drew about one amp, which makes sense, since it is working against a bit of a load (the cleaning skates).

Thanks for the data, and yes with the minimal space for batteries, run time stock seems very short and expensive. You may have read about people getting poor run time with AAA rechargeables, which often have about 800 milli amp hours , or 2/3 of the capacity, which is a lot shorter, i.e. about 1 hour, and then the remote control craps out sooner since the battery voltage drops too much.

That is without sound, so people who want sound and battery power will need to go to lithium ion and really pack this little loco.

Thanks for the info and enjoy your loco!

Greg
 

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Greg
The motor nameplate on the bottom says it’s rated 0 to 24VDC at 48VA. The battery output
is 9VDC. So if run on the batteries it’s essentially running at approximately 1/3rd of its
capable speed which to me seemed somewhat slow, plus in 1 1/2 hours or so the batteries were depleted.

Of course on DCC, you get the full voltage range at full throttle (20-24V) and the increased speed which now matches all my other locos.

Adding DCC is a perfect match for this motor. It’s essentially now equal with my other
locos, has great power, and since making this modification over a year ago, it’s been
100% reliable, and super fun to run.
Hey guys new here, lurker for awhile now haha. Anyway I really am interested in this 25 tonner as my first G scale engine. I currently dabble in HO and think this little guy is a perfect way to start in G. I would like to keep the battery powered aspect of it but would like to ditch the AAA batteries as they get quite spendy and only run on 9 volts. My question is seeing as how the motor is rated to 24V do you think I could swap the AAA pack out and run a higher voltage Lipo or LiOn? Maybe in the 14.8V which would be a 4S pack. Thanks guys what a wealth of knowledge here!!
 

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Super Modulator
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I forgot, the loco uses regular alkaline batteries... they have much higher density than rechargables in nimih.

AAA alkalines are about 1,250 milliamp hours.... it will be hard to equal that with rechargables in the same space...

Greg
 
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