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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
The chassis all reassembled. It took a while because I was waiting on new screws to arrive. I added a spacer under the steam engine to add some tension to the chain but mostly to make it easier to remove the engine later. Paint has a way of sticking to things and I don't want to have to repaint the whole locomotive because I replaced the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Now that the chassis is mostly put together I'm working on the boiler next. I've decided to remove the ferrule from the stack as it wasn't well fitted to begin with. At the lathe I almost always use collets. The exception being for hexagonal or square things or round things too big for my collet set, in which case I defer to chucks. The benefit of collets is easy to see here. The pipe that this stack is made from has a very thin wall, easily crushed by a chuck. With a collet, I can hold it tightly without fear.
 

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Wow, that is thin wall.
My lathe collets only go up to 1/2" so I have made a few pot chucks for larger sizes. I am lucky that my 3" 3-jaw that came with the lathe is true to under .001" but my 4" is off about .003" so I only use it when I have to.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
You may consider getting an ER-40 to MT3 collet chuck. With that, you can hold stock up to 1 inch. Here's a look at my collet chuck for the PM-1022V lathe I set up not too long ago. It's essentially the same as I had for the mini lathe except that it's MT4. A drawbar holds it in place so it can't spring free with a bushing to center it.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
To eject it I use a pair of opposed wedges set between the back of the collet chuck and the spindle flange. Loosen the drawbar but don't remove it. This will keep the collet chuck from flying out when the taper breaks free.


The gap for the wedges on the PM-1022V is pretty thin so I had to print them but for the mini lathe the gap is larger. The set of wedges I sold with my mini lathe was milled from UHMW. The ridge around the edge is not required.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
The boiler bands are really loose. When I made them the first time I could only guess and check to set their length. Now I can model a part before I actually build it. Before and after. Also more painting.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I'm in the home stretch so I'll save the big reveal for later. Here's a look at the burner before it goes under the boiler. It's still in near perfect shape. The final nut holding the boiler to the chassis is shared by the burner. The location is tough to reach so I have it attached to the end of a chop stick with some double sided tape. Just the thing for getting it started on the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
The O-ring seals in the gas valve and throttle were toast. It's good to have an O-ring kit on hand to save time during these odd jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
The fuel tank is too big. When running in the past I've just kept a close eye on it. When it stopped I would turn off the gas. At this point the boiler would be out of water. As far as I can tell, there's been no damage to the boiler from this.


As I was saying, the fuel tank is too big. Rather than make a new one, I'm just going to displace some of the volume. I drilled a hole in each side and soldered a 1/4 inch bar in place. The holes were countersunk to give space for solder after sanding the joint flush. Also more painting.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
The "handle" for the gas valve is just a brass Phillips drive pan head screw that took the place of the set screw that Roundhouse supplies. I'm tired of staring at the exposed threads so I cut some brass pipe for a cover.


The engineer all cleaned up. Here I'm taking extra care to wipe away any remaining glue residue with denatured alcohol. Yes, I know the stuff's poisonous. Shot glasses make excellent containers for these small solvent jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
While waiting for the paint on the fuel tank to dry I decided the locomotive looked a bit off without a cap for the smoke stack, so I made one.


The following pictures show me parting off the last vestige of the old cap, the hacksaw parting blade/grooving holder I made, and the new cap. Collets on a lathe are the bees knees.
 

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Big difference. Very nice result!:)
 
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