Part way through the disassembly. If you can believe it, I developed this independent of the BAGRS project locomotive. That is to say I had no knowledge that there was another 0-4-0 project locomotive using the Midwest steam engine/boiler kit and a chain drive.
The engineer was made of white clay and fired in the kilns of my high school. To remove him from the deck plate I heated the plate from the underside. I think he was held on with 5 min epoxy but it's impossible to know considering how old it is.
I was so happy when last year, I found a brass flatcar that I built when I was 13-14 years old. I'm 57 now. At the time, no large scale trains were sold in Sweden, except for the Aster Schools class and Reno. Just finding a wheelset was a true mission! I finally found two LGB axles, and the wheel flanges had to be turned down, to run on the little Märklin track I had. Starting in large scale trains, was very much an upp-hill experience at the time! Learned a lot about casting, lathes and all sorts of other things, since there was nothing to buy.
The wagon had been missing for 35 years, and I had given up hope ever finding it again. But now it's running. However, I'm uncertain if I should replace the couplings, and fixing another detail that has always annoyed me. And I never painted the brass. I think I should do that now.
Will you be doing any modifications, or just clean and repaint?
The parts after a couple of hours in the bath and some time with the wire brush. There aren't a lot of critical surfaces so I don't need to be too careful. They're mostly clean but I'll let them soak a bit more. Acetone is toxic and can be absorbed through skin contact. Wear gloves and have more nearby as they won't last long.
Acetone isn't quite so bad on the skin. It used to be I had problems buying acetone without oil having been added, since it was sold as nailpolish-remover. Since pure acetone will dry out yor skin, oil was added. This of course made the stuff unusable for my purposes. So I couldn't source my mothers supply. I had to buy my own bottles. 😄 Then again, avoiding contact and breathing the stuff, is of course preferrable.
Marking the solder locations for the feet and soldering them in place. Getting them soldered in just the right place was just as touchy as I remember from the first time (this is why the holes had to be drilled so weirdly). Thankfully I'm more practiced now.
Marking and drilling the mounting holes. I think I did a better job this time. This process is consistent with the tooling available to me when I first built this. I didn't have a lathe or a mill but I did have a belt sander, drill press, dial height gauge and a small surface plate. The last picture is the first selection of parts I need for the re-assembly being primed for paint.
The greatest area of wear in in the crank pin, more on this later. While all motion joints of the locomotive have wear, it's not as much as you might think with the least amount exhibited at the fit between the axles with the axle bushings.
Overall, the oscillating steam engine has it the worst. After the crank pin, the fit between the drive shaft and the frame of the steam engine is second worst. The fit between the piston and cylinder is surprisingly good though.
That said, these wear locations aren't really fixable. If there were more material cast into the frame of the steam engine, I could drill out the drive shaft hole and press in a new bushing with something similar being done to the crank pin.
No, the only way to amend the wear would be to build anew, but why bother? For now it still runs. I'll build a new single cylinder oscillator once this one is completely finished.
I have been using Lacquer Thinner for cleaning. It contains Acetone but is easier on the hands and does not evaporate as quickly.
There are different grades of thinner Finishing and Wash. The Wash is a bit harsher and cheaper and better for cleaning. The finishing thinner allows the lacquer paint to dry slower thus giving it a better sheen.