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Discussion Starter #1
Latley I have been doing a ton of research on micro layouts. (Thanks to Vic he inspired me to start one). As far as what scale I decided to go with ON30. I really wanted to do G scale but the size I am going with would have been too small for the type of layout. Plus ON30 seems very affordable and the size is decent. Some of the key things I am going with
- size is 4ft by 3ft
- theme is logging
- Loop with a few sidings for operation
- Small trestle with a ravine


I went through many layout designs for ideas and I found pictures of this one.
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic...orum_id=40
I really liked the track plan and going to do something like this. This layout is 4 by 2. I have an extra 1ft wide to work with.


Working with Ho track is new for me. I picked up a few sections of 100 code nickle silver track and turnouts. I also ordered a Bachmann Porter from St Aubins for $33. For log cars I plan on making them using some old trucks etc... from my HO cars I dug up.
I plan on glueing the track down but not sure how to do the joints. In G scale you can solder or use clamps. Can the Nickle silver be soldered together? or just leave them alone? I am also going to paint the ties to look more like wood and probably take out every-other tie. Im starting with a sheet of plywood. Then I plan on using styrofoam on top. That way I can cut out my ravine and then any hills/mountains I figure I can just build up the styrofoam in those areas. Something like what vic did with his pizza layout.
Im looking forward to starting this project and having a small layout I can use indoors when it rains or is too cold outside. If anyone has an ideas or suggestions please post. This is all new too me. I will post my progress once I start. For now just trying to learn what I can.
 

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Shawn,

Neat idea. HO track can be soldered very easily with a simple small soldering iron, solder from someplace like Radio Shack. Just make sure the track and rail joiners are clean, and use rosin flux, the tip of the iron is CLEAN and hot. Shouldn't take more than say 10 seconds to make a good solder joint. Much longer and the iron is not likely clean, and you will melt those plasitc ties. I like Poly S grimy black to paint the track and ties, and you can glue the track down to the foam with a latex adhesive caulking--just pin it down with straight pins while it dries. You might want to consider using cork between the foam and track. My experience is that foam under the track is a bit loud.

Hope that helps.

Matt
 

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Yah, I just cleaned the rail heads with a paper towel and an appropriate paint thinner right after spraying the track.

There is a great new book out by Model Railroader all about laying reliable and realistic track--but that may be overkill for the microlayout you are planning. Please keep us posted, the idea is so good my mind is going--boy don't let my wife know--she might kick me out to the back garage if I suggest more trains or a second layout!

Matt
 

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Shawn,

That is unbelievable!!! I am going to blame this one on you. Maybe I just got to build one of these (in my spare time of course). The possibilities look endless.

Thanks for the link, just added that one to my favorites.

Matt
 

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Shawn

As others have pointed out, you can solder together HO-guage track. I would suggest you solder on the outside of the rails. Flange clearances are smaller in the smaller scales and a solder blob on the inside of the rails can make for annoying derailments.
 

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I always thought one of these micro layout would fun to do. Just have it running in the background while working on something in the shop. Thanks for posting this link.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well here are some pictures of what I have done so far. I got the roadbed down for the loop. My next step is to start carving out my ravines and areas that need to be carved where the track will go. Once the carving is done then I can put the track down and get an engine running. Then I have to put down the roadbed for my sidings.





 

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Shawn

One suggestion, when using extruded foam such as you are utilizing for your layout, this material can be cut quite easily with a hot, foam-cutting knife. Woodlands Scenics sells one. You might also find one at a Michael's Craft Store or Hobby Lobby. They can also be ordered on-line. Using this knife allows you to really sculpt the foam to produce good slops into your valleys and makes for a cleaner job. Just remember to have ventilation, you are melting a foam product if you use a hot knife.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I got my sidings complete on my micro. Im also taking a break from my micro mainly because I got involved in creating a smaller Micro for my wifes desk at work (shes a teacher) and to work on my scenery skills for my larger one. I was going to do this layout in n scale but quickly realized how I do not like working in this scale plus no good porters for this scale as well. Anyway here is what I have completed. It is 24inches by 16 inches and in on30. So far I am happy with it. The challenge will be the scenary.



Portals are built from scratch


 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got my smaller micro layout done. This one is going to my wife for her classroom. The theme of the layout is an old school house scene. It came out better than I thought. I learned a lot from this. Next I have to tackle my other Micro I started with the sidings. thats going to be a logging theme..

 

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Very nice work! thanks for sharing.
 

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On carl's site, there are between 250-350 different plans and I just figured out one more, a switch that connects to a crossover to creates a spur on the other side, then a traverser connects the two lines from the crossover. it's basic ad takes 2.25 square feet!
 
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