Old Grade Crossing Bell

Posted By Torby on 05/08/2008 6:37 AM
They have electronic ones around here. The one where UP crosses IL 176 sounds sick. Somebody needs to put it out of its misery.




C man, I am waiting to take pixs of it for you.

Torby, ever hear a microprocessor (sp) one? Thing is you can not unless your out of the car and standing beside it! /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/laugh.gif Now there sick /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sick.gif

Posted By Curmudgeon on 05/08/2008 12:03 AM
I forget the voltage, but mine works on 12V.
There is a motor, gears, and a centrifugal clapper.
When you unbolt the bell, do the parts move by hand?




Looks like it sayes on paper inside 10 Ohms - 6 to 17 volt DC Operation. Clapper moves freely. Note photos.













Thank you,
Toad

Hey Toad William

I believe Greg is correct. From the pictures it looks like with the armature all the way down against the two solenoids there should approximately 1/16" between the item labeled 3 in the diagram displayed in the seventh picture down (i.e. Greg's springy thing) and the mating contact that moves up and down with the armature. To adjust for that 1/16" gap, first don't have any power applied to the bell, then loosen the screw labeled 5 in the diagram slightly. Then while holding the armature down against the two solenoids, tap the item labeled 2 in the diagram down, which is to the left of the screw (i.e. item 5) you just loosened, until you get the 1/16" gap. Then tighten the screw back down and double check that you still have the 1/16" gap.

Next locate the terminal block that has three posts, it's just to the bottom-left of the solenoids. The post on the far left, which has the one wire and connects to the bottom of the adjustable resistor, located up and slightly to the left. Is where you connect the positive lead of your power supply.

The middle post in the terminal block is where you connect the negative lead of your power supply.

If the speed of the bell ringing is to fast or to slow, I'm fairly sure you use the band on the adjustable resister.

To adjust the resistor, first disconnect the power then loosen the screw that holds the band going around the resistor, then slide the band up or down a little bit and retighten the screw, reattach the power and see what has happened. One way will cause the bell to ring faster, the other way will slow the ring down.

Hope the above works for you, if not then let us know.

Oh man, Steve, you gave me this info at night???? /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif I will not be able to sleep..../DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/crazy.gif
This is GREAT!!!! I owe you a ??? and a hand shake!
Now @ 4:30am the bell shall toll /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif, I live in the woods but have nice people around me

Let ya'll know next pm if it works.

William
AKA Toad

Did I remember to say I have a full fuction air raid siren, steam whistle, 2 light target and now this. Yeah, I am a kid!
Want a bell (17", I think) but dang they want way to much /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blink.gif

Update:
Bell rang fine, slow but it was on a slow ring and 12v!
The right stub is POS and far left stub is NEG. I used my truck battery to check and ya'll did not tell me to wear ear plugs /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/crying.gif
Thanks guys,
Toad

Hey William

That's great, glad you got things worked out. Sorry about the "ringing in the ears." /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/hehe.gif