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Yes, I would imagine the USA trains model is probably based on the original Reading design..
there was some variation in minor things like end windows, steps, etc..

the drawing I posted is for LV versions only..

Also LV versions had the distinctive "drip strip" over the side windows, which only LV cabooses had..
I will have to scratch-build those when I paint my LV version..

Scot
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Just a slight update--I painted the roof black, which was typical of the Reading, and took a few pictures outside. Our layout is still a real mess, and the ground is very soft so I'm staying away for a bit. It really is a nice model although the lighting is odd--it takes a 9v rechargeable but the battery only lights the marker lamps. I have a feeling I'll be pulling that circuitry and replacing the whole shebang wth LEDS. The pluger pistons have been replaced wth ball bearing wheels, and a few figures have been added


Here it is behind a USAT "utlimate series" reefer and a USAT outside braced boxcar





And backing into the yard:

 

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Sounds like the battery is for lighting when there is no track power. Several of my Bay window USAT work this way. Later RJS
 

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"...So a tiny figure, in a tiny chair, .. so my theory - correctly scaled caboose overall, for 1/29 scale. but the guy in the cupola is clearly a very tiny human..much shorter than average.."

Have ya measured, top of head to butt + butt to knee + knee to bottom of foot = height (allowing a bit for clothing and shoe heel, of course) !

ie someone sees me sitting probably considered "average height", until I stand up 6'3" not so average !


Thanks for the initial review ! Also glad to see cabeese with realistic railings . . wish manufacturers (or some third party) would have replacement sets of 'scale' railing.


doug c
 

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The guy with the chicken kinda reminds me of Larry.

Nice pictures, Mike!
 

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Sean: like the figures can you supply the info where you got them from. Later RJD
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I just redid the lights in mine--converted the overheads to LEDs. Added a 2400 uf capacitor to reduce flickering.

It's not hard--power from the track goes to two copper strips. The lights bulbs are wired to the copper strip. I added a bridge rectifier, the capacitor, and a 470 ohm resistor, and soldered three Christmas light leds to the strips, then hot glued them into the place where the bulbs were.
 
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