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2nd generation sound much better than the first . Great layout video and I don't think I have seen plumes as good from ant other Aristo Mike. Looks real good and as we have said before "You cannot beat the price of the "MIKE"
 

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Thought it sounded like the k-28 or k-36 sounboard. Great whistle. How did you hook it up to the sound board on the Aristo. I don't like the original sound on the mike but the Phoenix sounds great.
I won't use it around the "Steam Purist", insults the true track and steam sound.
If you could diagram I would like to have it. email [email protected]
 

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Jim: Welcome to the group. Nice looking machine, great slow speed operation. Looks like a good set-up.

Take care and have fun, Bob
 

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Welcome to Live Steam. I offer one suggestion....It appears that your safety is releasing steam while you are running...either the setting of the safety valve is too low or you are running the burner to high. Steam lost to the safety is just lost energy......Regards.
 

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gibs035, no it was not out of line, I was thinking some pics would help since I think my discription was poor the first time, so I will try again without pics. The Phoenix sound board is not mounted or any way hooked up to the Mike or tender. It is located in the 100 ton hopper car (sound car) behind the tender. it is battery operated by L-ion battery in sound car and car truck is equiped with two wheel magnets and reed switch for chuff. Essentially this is a sound car I built to use with any loco Diesel or steam or LS. It also has an AC auxiliary R/C reciever to manualy sound whistle or bell. The car also has an AC TE to control current to loco if I want to use as Battery car. What really makes it sound good is mounting a 2 inch speaker on the sloping side of hopper facing forward toward the loco. Sound much better than projecting sound downward like most sound cars. The AC 100 ton hopper car acts as a great speaker enclosure to give sound a good bass. Also it is equiped with metal wheels with wire hook up lugs so all the electronics can be run from track current. It worked so well I built two more but only with sound capabilities/track powered. More info at link below........Jim

http://www.aristocraft.com/vbulletinforums/showthread.php?t=11283
 

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Thanks Jim. I had done essentialy the same thing some time ago and had forgotten aboutit. Shows what
old age does for you. Thanks for your quick response. Almost knew it would not have been Aristo sound board. Thanks again for your help.
 

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SalM, Thanks for the comments. I believe the burner needs to be turned down. The relief valve was opening at about 42 psi. I had the burner all the way open, next time i'll try to adjust down, it is some what sensitive. I quess you need to fine that happy medium where you don't pop the valve so often at slow speeds and yet have enough steam for high speed. I prefer slow speeds so if I can get by with lower fuel rate maybe the run time can be extended from 30 to 45 minutes........Jim
 

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Good practice for oiling is after each dailt run and clean up. Get in the habit of doing it and you can spend as much time cleaning and servicing as you will running. Happy Steaming.
 

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Before the run - turn the loco over take the opportunity to LIGHTLY oil up the bearings that you can't get to with the loco right way up, then - remember the mantra -

GOW - GAS - fill up, Oil - all the wiggly bits and fill up the steam oil, and Water - fill up the boiler.

After the run, and everything has cooled down - blow down [if your loco can do that], drain down [boiler and lubricator], and wipe down.

Some say put it away with a full boiler - others don't.

I learnt by watching and driving full-size and big ride-ons.

Your experiences may vary, as will the advice from others.

tac
 

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If you look down the smoke stack, use a mirror or safety goggles; some engine spit oil and water out. Perhaps the Aristo engine doesn't do this...

Garrett
 

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Jim
There are some worthy upgrades that could assist in keeping the engine running and much easier to deal with potential problems as per prior threads:

Such as-
Insulation
Water bath heating
Fuel delivery
Check the timing
Goodall valve
Oil consumption

Probably a few other items but those improvement will keep you steamin' along!

Check the MLS archives or Aristocraft live steam discussion threads for recommended upgrades.
 

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Jim,

Adjusting a gas burner is nomally a very sensitive thing, that you however will learn pretty quick. However, the type of gas you use, will also affect sensivity. Easiest to manage is pure butane (=sold for cigarette lighters). However to run in colder weather (a bit above freezing ca +5C), you need to run on a mixture of butane and propane to maintain gas pressure / flowing. You can use up to 30% propane. More propane than that, and you will have great difficulties adjusting the flame. Propane i also richer in energy, so everything else beeing equal (for example temperature), you will get a slightly longer run with some propane content.

I found the most difficult thing about gas firing, was to learn when the burner was clogged with some minute / "invisible" dirt. If you know you've done everything right (wich is difficult to know when you still lack experience ;-) and the burner still won't light, or behaves irratically - unscrew the nozzle and clean it. I use one of the tiny copper cords from a piece of electrical wiring. You should be able to spot light coming through the nozzle. (Nozzle hole is like 0,2 mm or slightly larger.)

Welcome to a great hobby, offering strong feelings of pleasure, and also accomplishment when you learn to master some new aspect! With experience you will "read" the sight and sound of your engine, and you will know what is going on with your engine. I think our engines are almost as "alive" and complex as a horse, and the enjoyment partially comes from similar senses of "mastery"! Though for some (presumably genetic) reason, women tend to go for horses, while some men go for live-steam engines! :-D
 
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