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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
  OK  Now that that learning experience is over ( I had to down size and load pics 3 times) let's get on with the program
   I started my station the other day. So far I have cut the sides,ends,and stiffeners out of foam which is a new modeling medium to me.
   Her's what I have :
                                                        

                                                        

                                                        


   As cut the station will have a foot print of 48" x 16" and that does not include any platform area.The dark blue is painting tape holding the station masters alcove in place.Note the back wall at the top of the bottom picture has a freight door at the far end. This will be a below grade siding large enough for one 40'er.
     This is being built in York Pa.

     Now that we're past the particulars I begin the questions.
     What type of glue should I use?     I plan on construction adhesive. Will this be Okay?
     For cover I plan on scale stone,as I'm going for the dressed field stone look. I wasthinking of using quickset ceramic floor adhesive applied heavily to provide a glue type morter as I think the color should be about right. Any thoughts?
      For the roof I want to somewhat replicate the roof line of the H-O Rico station. For you other oldtimers you may recall this model had a slight out/up roll on the lower overhang. I have in mind to use a piece of coil stock as the subroof as it should hold this form.
      Do you think this will work?   Should I heat the coil stock as I form it around a piece of 3" pvc pipe?
     The roof will have wood formers under the eaves to help mantain the shape.It will also be covered with ice dam,and then I plan on cutting 30 weight felt into shingle strips and then adding an agrigate for the final surface.

    Any thoughts?  Advice?  Opinions? Any help is appreciated  Thank You  Dave
 

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I prefer using Loctite PowerGrab with foam. Works well and water clean up. Some construction adhesives will melt the foam a bit. I have used Liquid Nails for foamboard and that works well with no adverse effects.
You can use a Tippi foam cutter and wire brushes to get a decent stone effect (see Yogi's page - http://users.stratuswave.net/~wd8jik/foamcutter/foamcutter.htm#)-  or just glue on plastic veneers from Precision Products or Plastruct.

A station I made for a nephew -





and Plastruct cut stone veneer on foam -




-Brian
 

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Yes' solvent based adhesives will literally melt the foam. Liquid Nails makes numerous types of caulk tube type adhesives. Just make sure it says it is suitable for use on foam. Their general construction adhesive is not suitable for foam. Some ceramic tile adhesives are also solvent based and will dissolve the foam. As Brian indicates, you can carve bricks or stone into the foam. Some folks have coated the foam with plastic latex patching cement for texture or stucco look. I don't think you need to heat coil stock to bend it into a shape. Roof sounds real serious with ice dam and heavy felt. Would you be installing the felt strips using an asphalt type roofing cement in a caulk tube? What did you have in mind for windows and doors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you Brian and Dick,
Brian Tippi foam cutter from where? Maybe at ECLSTS? I guess your talking about some form of hot wire cutter?
Dick, I'll make sure I check the base properties.
I have followed both of you and seen some of your work and I have to say that your Porterhouse stands out Dick, and I saw that station of your's last year when you showed it to another newbie, Brian and I thought that your work stood out.Let me also include those trestles for your hill Dick.
I'm not adverse to stuccoing the structure or using plastic sheet,but we recently had to put in a sewer system and I have left over gravel. Therefore free material of the right size.That is one of the reasons I hope using the real thing is practical. The ice dam is a carry over from the idea of planking the roof with thin strips to get the curve and therefore a waterproof barrier was needed.Not necessary over coil stock.
As far as heating the coil stock I wasn't sure. Following other threads on using cans for siding some recommended heat to make it more plyable?and although I've bent coil on a break getting it to keep a roll is new to me. I plan on taping it to a piece of pipe or cutting a slot in a piece of pipe and pulling it around that but unless I use a smaller dianeter pipe I don't think it will hold it's shape. But I'll try both and let you know as I go along.
Thanks again Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Forgot but I plan on scratch built doors and windows wood or plastic with clear plexi for glass and I'll put Loctite powergrab on the shopping list Dave
 

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Dave; Thanks for your nice comments. ECLSTS is a good place to get those embossed plastic sheets. When you mentioned coil stock I thought you were referring to a heavy material like aluminum flashing sold in Home Depot or Lowes. If you are referring to the soda cans they are very springy and do hold a curl of their own. Good luck with your project. Maybe we will see it a the ECLSTS model contest. Don't look for anything from me this year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Dick,
Your original thought was right aluminum roll as I have a left over piece. I have used it to wrap trim on housies and know it's a bit springy,thats why I was thinking of heating it to make it hold the roll.
Dave
 
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