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Discussion Starter #1
Well after much drawing and redrawing here is the plan for the first phase on the new layout. It will be 170 x 110 with a double track main line around the permiter. I did it this way to kelp in the fall when I have to vacuum leaves- 60 trees so I need to be able to get around the yard. The track will be supported by a 6 foot privacy fence with dirt and land scape up to the bottom of the rail.
 

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How big are your curves?




I've been thinking to avoid the rectangle around the area type arrangement, but then, that doesn't work with it running along the fence 







I think you'd want more interchange between your 2 loops.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Posted By Torby on 02/10/2009 3:49 PM


How big are your curves?




I've been thinking to avoid the rectangle around the area type arrangement, but then, that doesn't work with it running along the fence





I think you'd want more interchange between your 2 loops.

Yes you are right about interchanges but I am trying not to over whelm myself setting up the new layout so I have chosen to just have a few places to cross over. I can always cut them in later. Plus I will have a whole logging railroad to build in the future. The pile around the trees- not scales well- is 30 x 25 and 3 feet high.
I intend to have some passing tracks in the future on both mainlines but for now this will work. It will give me a working railroad that should be fun for this year and leave me plenty in the future to do.

And I need to build a lot of new buildings now since I sold over 70 when I lost interest. All of the electrical will be in a 4 story factory next to the deck with a roof that opens to access it all.
All curves on the mains are 20 foot so I will be able to run a Big Boy or 2. My head is already spinning with all the work to get started since the fence is going in as soon as I can walk on the yard again and I'm doing it myself.
 

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You have such nice broad curves everywhere else, how about a loop/helix around the pond, instead of those really tight curves?

Regards, Greg
 

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Doug,
For round 1, you should add 1 more x-over in the opposite direction, otherwise you'll be doing a lot of backing up to cross over depending on the direction you are running.
And man, with an area that big, I would go atleast #10's on the main, #8's in the yard and larger curves!!

Have fun!
-Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #6
All great points and that is why I posted the plan. I have plenty of time to still refine the layout before old winter lets up here in Northern Ohio. I'm trying to work with what I have for the time being just to get up and running and then modify as I get things made of purchased. Last night I inventoried all the switches and found that there are 4 more #6 switched still in the box, Cool! I keep finding stuff almost every time I look plus I know ther are a lot out in the barn to bring in and recondition.
This layout is not as complex as the first one but I though it I kept it simpler at first I could always add over the years

I still want to keep the large oval setup because of the immense amount of leaves in the fall. Sometimes there is a foot on the ground at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've been thinking I just don't have the time to make much stuff before I get busy setting up but I think its a good idea to be doing the extra crossovers while I'm in to it. Does anyone make # 8 or 10 250 or 332 switches?
 

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I would suggest that you come out from the fence at least a couple of feet so that you can have plantings and buildings on the other side of the track. Makes for a more believable scene and better photos. You got a lot of straight track there. Some big gentle curves would more interesting as far as train movement and can be made using straight track with a proper subroadbed.

I'm not a big advocate of building up off of the ground because murphey's law says that you trains will fall off of the track to the ground. I just recently had the wind blow over a 55 car train on me and that took a Long time to rerail. Anyway, it would be tempting to buiild your layout up off the ground maybe a foot so that the leaves would naturally shed from the track. Might give you more running time. Up off the ground will save your back in the future, so there would be pros and cons.

Terl
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes the plan is to be up 8 to 10 inches on pressure treated wood then mound dirt up to alow for and derailments ad planings. The ridht side and back can have some curvesto it but the really long run needs to be streight to allow the mower to get down an isle where we have a flower bead about 7 feel out.
The other part of the plan is to paint some backround and sky on the fence with some 1/4 or 1/2 buildings against the fencing.
Gread Idea to put some curves in the streights for some motion. Guess I'll have to draw some revisions.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Posted By Terl on 02/13/2009 8:14 AM
My friend planted vines on his wood fence which really made for a nice backdrop in photos.

Terl

Hey now that's a great idea. We have tones of ive on the lot too.

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well after all the reply's, I've added a #10 Y to the access point so I can go either direction on the railroad and 3 more crossovers between the 2 main lines. Plus I've added 2 # 6's to the rail yard to park Big Boy on while other locos are running. I will post the new plan as soon as I finish drawing it up. Oh Boy can't wait!
 
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