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Posts by Greg Elmassian

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Greg Elmassian

· Super Modulator
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22,721 Posts
#10 ·
The website is mine. it is in a "nested" order using the menu on the left.... TRAINS.... MOTIVE POWER....ACCUCRAFT/AML......K4.

Still a bit rough, since I just converted mine to DCC last weekend... need to polish up and put some more pix on it.

Regards, Greg
 
Greg Elmassian

· Super Modulator
Joined
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22,721 Posts
#18 ·
Chuck, I guess you did not go to my web site yet: click here for the K4 section notice that most sections have further sub-sections below on the menu on the right.

This has a detailed, step by step disassembly procedure.

You could avoid removing the boiler by removing the brushes from the first and third drivers, but you would still have the smoke unit, lights motor and 6v regulator connected inside.

Read my QSI install page and you will see how I broke all the different circuits apart and used all of the 12 pin connector.

This way, I could do any install in the tender without removing the boiler again. Also, I did not want to be dependent on the 6v regulator in the loco, since if I ever changed from LEDs to light bulbs, I'd still be limited to 6v.

Right now, I'm waiting on a TAS smoke unit, since I will hook up the "puff n chuff" input to the chuff cam in the loco.

Regards, Greg
 
Greg Elmassian

· Super Modulator
Joined
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22,721 Posts
#24 ·
Another comment on the K4, JC, maybe you did not notice, but the wheels on the tender are dual ball bearing wheels, as far as I can tell. They rotate independently of the axle.

I finished the lighting wiring today, since they are LEDs you have to be careful of the polarity. The color coding of the wiring is also backwards, the backup light has a red and black wire, the red is ground and the black is positive. The markers are green and black, and again, green is ground, and black is positive. Anyway, if you rewire your loco, 3 ma for each led, and 6 ma for the markers and classification lights (since it's two LEDs in parallel).

It's breaking in on my layout, after oiling everything.

Regards, Greg
 
Greg Elmassian

· Super Modulator
Joined
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22,721 Posts
#28 ·
More to come, one more mod, washers between the wheel and the bushings to keep the bushings in place... will have to get some close up shot of the "equalizing" mechanism, but excessive side to side play in the axles makes the mechanism do funny stuff...

Regards, Greg
 
Greg Elmassian

· Super Modulator
Joined
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22,721 Posts
#31 ·
Nick, take that screw out, and clean away all the gunk! Then do the mod to deburr the sharp underside edge... you can tell it was sharp, it cut away all the paint! Grease the heck out of it with moly grease, it will work more smoothly.

Regards, Greg
 
Greg Elmassian

· Super Modulator
Joined
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22,721 Posts
#35 ·
Note: I just updated my K4 mods page: CLICK HERE on my web site.

I added the washers, and worked on the equalizing mechanism. It really works well now, and derailments from less that perfect vertical grades seems to have been eliminated.

Regards, Greg
 
Greg Elmassian

· Super Modulator
Joined
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22,721 Posts
#61 ·
I just put a 4" diameter speaker in my tender yesterday. Had to grind off a bit of the frame, but wow... I'll post a picture this weekend, it's a HUGE speaker, but it just fit. (well, there was a 15 minute span of cursing) I think I will have to cut a large hole in the tender bottom, those few drilled holes are just not doing it, blocking too much sound.

Regards, Greg
 
Greg Elmassian

· Super Modulator
Joined
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22,721 Posts
#87 ·
I put a 4 inch speaker in mine, had to sand off the tabs, and it just barely gets in there, but the difference in bass between the 3" and 4" was wild!

I will have to see what I can fit in my new 0-6-0 tender... woof indeed!

Greg
 
Greg Elmassian

· Super Modulator
Joined
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22,721 Posts
#90 ·
Yeah, have bought some small speakers from Jonathan to use as tweeters and may try to place behind coal load facing the bulkhead, or even in the boiler somewhere... I did this on the mallet and it worked well....

Regards, Greg
 
Greg Elmassian

· Super Modulator
Joined
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22,721 Posts
#104 ·
it's a flat strip of brass, with a hole in one end to secure it. The other end is just bent in a loop. should take you all of 5 minutes to make.

When you look on the loco, you will probably see the bolt that held it before it broke. You won't be able to use a cable tie, it needs a thin strip of metal.

Greg
 
Greg Elmassian

· Super Modulator
Joined
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22,721 Posts
#106 ·
Jerry, did you read all of my site on the K4?

Disassembly instructions there. You should be able to put that screw right back up there, but while you have the front truck off, you might want to do the mods I recommend.

Greg
 
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