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Jerry, push it. Take a file and cut the same type of notch in the other end, so you can have 2 couplers.

My car has 2 screws on each side, and my site shows it that way too, maybe you are remembering a similar, but different product?

The green scotchbrite pads that I found at Home Depot, in a pack of 8, 9" x 6" work fine, each pad can be cut into 3 pieces, so one pack gave me 24 pads!

I use mine on SS track, removes dirt, grime, ants, sap, dust.

Regards, Greg
 

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Jerry: The car will still be useful even on SS track. I just cut a notch on the other end and also enlarged the other end to except the Aristo Coupler. Later RJD
 

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Discussion Starter #123
Posted By Greg Elmassian on 09 Feb 2011 07:54 AM
Jerry, push it. Take a file and cut the same type of notch in the other end, so you can have 2 couplers.

My car has 2 screws on each side, and my site shows it that way too, maybe you are remembering a similar, but different product?

The green scotchbrite pads that I found at Home Depot, in a pack of 8, 9" x 6" work fine, each pad can be cut into 3 pieces, so one pack gave me 24 pads!

I use mine on SS track, removes dirt, grime, ants, sap, dust.

Regards, Greg

Hi Greg,

Give me a file and I can ruin anything. I will just drill and tap the other end and put a Kadee coupler on it as I did with the G Clean car.



After I received my track cleaner I went back and looked at the photo you posted here and as you said it too has two screws per side but the "official" picture on the Bridge-Masters site shows what is probably an earlier model. It really looks as if they either are using the same guy to build theirs or they copied the G Clean car but used a different cleaner. I can see benefits to both. The G Clean car uses a hard LGB 5004 pad with no loose strands that might hang up on sharp edges such as when passing through turnouts or gaps in the rails but the Bridge-Master car is significantly shorter which may help keep it from going off the rail on sharp curves (this is not a problem that I have experienced).

Another potential may exist for the Bridge-Master car which would be to see if I can hide it inside a caboose, boxcar or other covered car (remove the wheels, frame etc. and mount the cleaning block inside). Has anyone tried this and been successful? I tried it with the LGB 5004 block but never did get it to work.


As a retired 3M sales rep I still have access to certain 3M products at very good prices. I still prefer the 3M 7448 pads and I have enough of them to last a long time - especially when cut down to the size of the track cleaning car. I will be less concerned about microscopic scratches in stainless steel track but I still believe in using the least abrasive material needed for a job. If I do find the 7448's not abrasive enough (which would really surprise me) I can always go up to the 3M/Scotch 7447 which I have more than I will ever need of. Scotch-Brite™ Ultra Fine Hand Pad 7448, 6 in x 9 in


You and RJ are right. I will probably keep the new car with this layout and perhaps use on the main outdoor layout to get rid of tree sap etc.

The design may also make it readily adaptable to use with a soft cleaning pad to (with solvent) to remove oily residue because I have been thinking that once I expand the layout I may bring out the Aristo live Steam Mike and finally start running it.

This is actually related to the PCC Trolleys because it was the purchase of the PCC Trolleys and my deciding that I will run them on this layout that was the final straw convincing me to expand the size of the layout and to replace all the brass track and turnouts with Aristo Stainless Steel ones.

I will be running the Trolleys between the town and the sawmill.



Jerry
 

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I've tried it Jerry but did not work either for the Bridge works car. Later RJD
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Posted By Jerry McColgan on 02 Feb 2011 10:28 AM


The computers did not have keyboards but I bought 15 IBM keyboards (never used) for $15 ($1.00 each).
Jerry


Sometimes it pays to be cheap.

I had attached a (boating) drink holder to the wall next to the computer work station. Not wanting to drill a hole in the wall I had used the adhesive backing that the holder came with.

Today I was sitting here typing and the drink holder fell from the wall dumping a full (open) can of root beer all over and into my keyboard. I have been working with computers since 1982 and I have NEVER put a drink where it could spill onto a keyboard - until now.

What could have been a total disaster (especially if I was using a laptop) turned into a non-event. I unplugged the keyboard, went to the sink and poured water over the keyboard, turned the keyboard upside down and shook the water out and then plugged it back into the computer - and it is working perfectly!!!

Of course it was a totally dumb thing to do to pour water over the keyboard but to have left the root beer inside the keyboard would assuredly have caused significant problems and after all the new IBM keyboard had only cost $1.00 so if my water fix failed I could have trashed this keyboard and gotten another $1.00 one.

I guess I will drill a couple of holes in the wall after all.

Jerry
 

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Posted By Jerrys RR on 12 Feb 2011 05:36 PM
{snip...}[/i] Today I was sitting here typing and the drink holder fell from the wall dumping a full (open) can of root beer all over and into my keyboard. I have been working with computers since 1982 and I have NEVER put a drink where it could spill onto a keyboard - until now. {snip...}[/i]
Hehehe, I did that once too. Was in a hotel room working late and knocked a 32 oz. soft drink over and flooded the keyboard on my IBM laptop, I mean like a tub filled to the brim. Then thinking quick I pulled the power cord out of the wall receptacle, only to realize that the laptop just switched over to battery power. So I grabbed the laptop and just turned it over and dumped all the soda out, continued to hold it upside down and released the battery. Then I removed all the key caps from the keyboard and mopped up all the remaining liquid, took the key caps into the bathroom and washed them off with hot water, patted them dry in a towel and made sure as best I could no moisture remained. Put all the keys back on. Plugged the wall-wart power supply back in with no battery, and I couldn't believe it the darned thing worked fine.

Although, about four days later I ran into a couple of the keys sticking because of the dried soda syrup and had to disassemble the laptop so I could flush the keyboard mylar with Trichloroethane (methyl chloroform) and clean all the sticky stuff out, but after that never had any further problem. Some times one just gets by on plain dumb luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Posted By SteveC on 12 Feb 2011 07:13 PM


Some times one just gets by on plain dumb luck.



How true that is.

Jerry
 
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