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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

Its still amazing what you can get on Ebay for $11 bucks these days...



Man everyone must have been busy watching Dancing with the Stars when these were up, I put in a much higher bid but lo and behold at the end , I had them for a sawbuck and some change, full bodys w/ interior on the coach, dam!

No chassis, but I can build them!

After looking at them I saw why they may have been so cheap, they've been repainted but the paint didnt take, it crazed real badly



So OK now I'll have to strip them before I can paint them Borracho Blue like my Delton combine

I want to strip them down to the plastic so I can re-prime them, so....

ANY ONE GOT ANY BEST SUGGESTIONS???
 

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Vic,

Two suggestions. 1) Try brake fluid. It takes forever (days of soaking) but it works, so I'm told. 2) My preference is Scalecoat paint remover. I've used it for years and it is fast. 20-30 minutes of soaking and the paint slides off. An old tooth brush to get into the crevices and you are in business, and it is water soluble. Plus, it is reuseable. Just pour it into another sealable container, I use a large pickle jar, or back into its original bottle. But try to strain it before pouring it back, as it keeps working on the paint in it and will eventually loose its potentency. I don't believe that either fluid will harm your plastic. The Scalecoat stuff is expensive, but pays for itself with its speed of removing the old paint and the fact that it is reuseable. Good luck with your project.
 

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I've heard that the break fluid will attack most G scale plastic. I use to use it on HO equipment and it worked on it but I think I'd try the scalecoat paint remover as Greg suggested. Seeing how the cars have been repainted you could also try 98% Denatured Alcohol. You can get it only at a true drug store. Later RJD
 

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Vic,

Looks like someone used spray paint.

I know this is going to sound awful, but last year, while painting bachmann hopper cars, I had some problems like yours. I took a little paint thinner on a paper towel and quickly removed everything then washed it in the sink immediately. It did remove all of the paint. The problem I see for your situation is the crevices along the sides. I have used brake fluid before with LGB plastic, two tankers. I still could see Union Pacific when I was done removing the lettering, but a little sand paper and primer solved that problem.
 

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Victor. I've been very successful using a "Super Clean" type product. Comes in a gallon size. The last time I bought some was at Checker Auto and it was some kind of "Purple Stuff".

I mix it 1:1 with water, throw the cars in and let them soak until the paint falls off. Sometimes it takes 2 hours or could take 2 days.... But it does work and doesn't harm the plastic.

I use medical exam gloves when I handle the stuff. It's real slippery...
 

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Ah, I had watched those on eBay, but gave up, fearing the paint being thick.

Simple Green seems to work on many plastics.

BASF resins Luran S and Ultraform (the two plastics used by LGB, Luran was the older one with the nicer smell) are automotive plastics, so they are a bit more durable, but solvents can still do a number to them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys, I think I'll try the denatured alcohol to start, I'll need some to clean my never-used airbrush that I want to start experimenting with, so I can double duty what I buy.


If that doesnt work, I'll try the Superclean or the Scalecoat, I want to avoid the brake fluid as that stuff is a headache to clean up and dispose of properly.


Toad, nice try
 

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I've used 90% isopropyl rubbing alcohol before on stock paintjobs (notably, an N-scale Life-Like F40PH). Peeled the paint off as if it were a skin, and never harmed the plastic. Don't know how well it would respond to cheap spray paint though - probably faster then the stock paint I was fiddling with.

-Kurt
 
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