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Remove the four screws from the base of the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank and set aside for now. Install the fuel tank screws back in the frame so they don’t get lost.

Under the cab there are two very small screws, highlighted in blue, in the side of the frame by the cab. A very small (2 or 2.4 mm) Phillips screwdriver will be required to remove them.

NOTE: A six piece set of precision screwdrivers from The Source in Canada (stock number 640-1962) is $8, and from Radio Shack in the USA (stock number 64-2969) is $6. The 3.8 mm screwdriver is my most used tool for large scale train work.

There are ten more screws, highlighted with yellow, holding the cab and hood to the frame. These are hidden in deep burrows in the frame and will require a long Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove them.

CAUTION Do not remove the side frames or the motor blocks to access any of the screws, as the U-joint between the pivoting and main motor blocks may come undone. The U-joints can only be accessed by removing the top cover on the main motor block.
The first two screws are directly behind the front pilot. The next two are hidden under the front truck. These are the hardest to remove. The truck will have to be turned and the screwdriver inserted between the side frames and the motor block between the center and rear wheels. The wheels may have to be pushed against the motor block for clearance. Two are in the middle of the empty area left by the fuel tank. Two are behind the fuel tank, in front of the rear truck. The last two are under the rear, pivoting motor block. [/list]

CAUTION: Do not lift the shell too far up or the front headlight wiring may unplug.

Turn the locomotive over. Carefully lift the shell from the rear. The long hood and cab will lift off as one piece.
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