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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a used USA Trains 70mac and was looking it over agian and realized that it appears that there are no switches on the underside for the engine/smoke/ect. The holes are there and labeled but no switches. Im wondering if some of the older models just didnt have them or if its possible its been modified. If its been modified why would the switches have been removed. Anything I can look for to possible explain? Thanks for your help in advance, Larry
 

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Super Modulator
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Used: "I just purchased a used USA Trains 70mac"....

It's modified, take it apart, it could have been set up for DCC or battery, or just messed up and the board eliminated. Maybe the board is loose, but I doubt it.


Regards, Greg
 

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I took Greg's advice and took it apart. (Well I just removed the fuel tank) In the fuel tank there is a pheonix board and speaker. I then called pheonix as I had just started to look into sound since I purchased the loco and they told me after giving them some numbers on the board that it has the p5 system installed. I just downloaded the user man. Wow. Looks a little intimidating. Im thinking about going to a train shop near me and having them test run it just to see if it all works. Im still buying track and looks like a dcc controler. Any advice as to which dcc to purchase? This is going in my son's room and I dont want to get nuts with it at this point. Thanks, Larry
 

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If you are only running one or a few trains, it might not justify buying a DCC system. I'm kind of opposed to buying an "entry-level" DCC system, because the reasons they cost less is they have limitations or fewer features.

It always seems to be a bad idea, you seem to need the exact feature you gave up to save a few bucks!

Most DCC controllers will work on DC, and the P5 should also, so try it on DC yourself first... just a little voltage and see if it runs.

Regards, Greg
 

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Might be interesting to open it all the way up and see what else is inside.
Any external switches?
Charge jacks?
 

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Ya curious as to why they remove the main circuit board. Also you can then tell what DCC board they used. Later RJD
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I will open her up in the next day or two and have a closer look. Externally I cant find any switches or volume controls. Ive looked pretty good but I guess when i open it up I will follow the wiring and see what I find. I would test it out but I dont have a throttle or any track yet. Working on that now. If this infact does have dcc I will likely want to go with dcc. What brand should I be looking for? Can I buy 1 dcc controller/throttle and use it on 2 tracks? (disconect and reconect to another) I would like to have a n scale set up for myself. (g is for son's room) Also I cant figure out how the smoke would work. Can dcc control that also?

Thanks for all the help guys. Im sure some of my questions have been answered here many times over and I will start searching now.
 

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OPENING THE CAB AND LONG HOOD ON AN SD-70 MAC

Remove the four screws from the base of the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank and set aside for now. Install the fuel tank screws back in the frame so they don’t get lost.

Under the cab there are two very small screws, highlighted in blue, in the side of the frame by the cab. A very small (2 or 2.4 mm) Phillips screwdriver will be required to remove them.


NOTE: A six piece set of precision screwdrivers from The Source in Canada (stock number 640-1962) is $8, and from Radio Shack in the USA (stock number 64-2969) is $6. The 3.8 mm screwdriver is my most used tool for large scale train work.


There are ten more screws, highlighted with yellow, holding the cab and hood to the frame. These are hidden in deep burrows in the frame and will require a long Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove them.


CAUTION Do not remove the side frames or the motor blocks to access any of the screws, as the U-joint between the pivoting and main motor blocks may come undone. The U-joints can only be accessed by removing the top cover on the main motor block.
The first two screws are directly behind the front pilot. The next two are hidden under the front truck. These are the hardest to remove. The truck will have to be turned and the screwdriver inserted between the side frames and the motor block between the center and rear wheels. The wheels may have to be pushed against the motor block for clearance. Two are in the middle of the empty area left by the fuel tank. Two are behind the fuel tank, in front of the rear truck. The last two are under the rear, pivoting motor block. [/list]

CAUTION: Do not lift the shell too far up or the front headlight wiring may unplug.


Turn the locomotive over. Carefully lift the shell from the rear. The long hood and cab will lift off as one piece.
 
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