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I have done it many times Matthew, but every single time was after the tender was lowered. So, my method of slotting the end beam , building up or filling in behind with solid styrene, and using the AMS draft gear holes for screws may not apply to your s, unless your tender is lowered also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, so far, I've got the trapezoid shaped plate that disguises the "gap" between the Bachmann coupler and the frame filed back a bit, and the first row of bolts filed off, with the idea that the AMS one will match up, and be just slightly below the frame. I'm worried though, that particularly the two lower bolts on the flange won't have enough to bite on to properly hold the coupler, so I'm going to have to do something underneath to secure it... probably add a couple pieces of styrene to the back of the beam, so there's a place to put a screw, or a bolt, through the back of the coupler box.

Next week: Figuring out how to make the coupler sensor work...
 

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Matthew,
Here's the other side of that coupler.  Sorry I didn't have time to get a picture of it earlier.


I just filed off enough on the front oof the plate to allow the coupler face to fit snugly.   I used some extra nuts that I had on hand to secure each bolt.   All in all, a pretty easy conversion.  I've got two of these done this way and haven't seen any indication of potential problems.
 
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