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Discussion Starter #1

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And there you have it. A one-off track cleaner made from an AristoCraft 3-axle truck, like no other for just a few dollars in a motor, piece of tube, a connector, and some abrasive wheels. And replacement wheels are ~$0.50 each as opposed to the LGB cleaning wheels that go for ~$25-$30/pr.


When you get it in operation, shoot a video and post it. Curious to see it in action. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was trying it out and put too much weight on it on one side (12 volt gel pack), and the CA let go on that axle. I reglued it using a healthier dose of CA and won't put nearly as much weight on it. It only takes a bit of weight and I shimmed the motor a bit closer to the track, so even less now.

I feared this may happen all along, but maybe I can find stronger CA if it fails again. From testing, it only take a moment to make the rail shine.
 

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I'm surprised you can do it without a floating mount on the motor. I guess you will need to "tune" the springs instead?

Are the abrasive wheels something like Cratex?

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is "tuned" by the amount of weight added and only takes a bit. The 3-axle trucks are sprung on the two outter axles, but not the center. I have some stick-on lead weights that should do it.

Alternatively, I am thinking of putting it under an unused Aristocraft track cleaning caboose and that may be all the weight it needs. I can also change to heavier springs.

Yes, Cratex, 1" diameter x 1/8" hole (gets enlarged) x 3/16" thick, coarse grade.

I got of box of 100 for a bit over $50 on the bay on a "make offer"
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My track cleaner works great except that the hollow axles that are CA'ed to the motor shafts can let go and slip under load.



In your experience, who makes the strongest CA that can hold a 2MM ID stainless steel tube to a 2MM OD motor shaft? The fit is fine with no excess slop when it spins.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How about a 2 part epoxy? JB Quik? Depending on the plastic involved.
No plastic involved. It is a 2MM OD motor shaft going into a 2MM ID stainless steel tube. Becuase the tolerances are so tight, something thick like JB Weld would just get pushed out as the axle slides onto the motor shaft. The lenght of the shafts are <1/4" so there is not a lot of area to bond too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll first try different adhesives. Loctite makes a stronger adhesive than the one I used.

Thanks
 

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Been using Loctite for many years, keeps my old Harley from vibrating apart. Red requires heat to undo nuts secured with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I tried the Titebond Ultra. I put it on the axle that was slipping. It is thinner than the other Titebond gel I had used so better saturated the pieces. It is also stronger.

I put the cleaner on some rail that was really caked with corrosion and the axle with the Ultra held, but the other axle (with the original gel) let go this time. I redid it with the Ultra and will let it set up a day.

Again, as the axle pushes on, the CA pushes forward and wants to bind the shaft to the casing. This time I put a bit of grease at the opening to keep any CA from entering the bearing. I still had to grasp both axles and continue to rotate them for a while, and intermittently, to keep the shaft from sticking to the case as the CA set up.
 
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