[bucknutdave]

i was just curious if anyone knew what a good price from the K-28 model from Mountain Model Imports would be. i've found them for $330 but im not sure if thats a good price. thanks for the help!

 

[Rods UP 9000]

I got my On3 in Bumble Bee paint for $425 new about 2 years ago.
Rodney

 

[Dwight Ennis]

That sounds like a reasonable price to me.

 

[bucknutdave]

do i need to have DCC to run the mmi K-28 or can i use just a regular DC power pack wired to the tracks?

 

[Dwight Ennis]

If memory serves, it's set up for regular DC, with a standard plug in the tender to allow for easy conversion to DCC.

 

[bucknutdave]

i got my k-28 today and i tried doing a test run and i was using HO track and a DC power supply i used when i was doing my ho scale trains and it just seemed like it wasnt getting enough power to run, any suggestions?

 

[Zonk]

Hey Dave, they are geared a lot differently from your run of the mill standard gauge model. they have them geared to run more prototypical speeds. at least that is what i came across with mine! those engines just dont look right going more than 20 mph anyways

But if it wasnt running period im not sure what to tell you. It may be that you need a bigger power source. But i have ran mine with just the ordinary bachmann power pack and it ran fine

Take care!

Matt

 

[tacfoley]

Posted By bucknutdave on 08/08/2008 11:20 PM
i got my k-28 today and i tried doing a test run and i was using HO track and a DC power supply i used when i was doing my ho scale trains and it just seemed like it wasnt getting enough power to run, any suggestions?




Many DCC-fitted locos need a lot more oomph to get going than one without. My BLI #3751 doesn't get interested until the track voltage hits around seven or eight volts at 1A - most small DC power units that come with a starter set, fer instance, are hardly putting out 1A at their maximum of 12V.

The point of the loco not being a racer is also a valid one - many are electronically governed to a realistically low top speed as part of their basic programming, even in DC.

tac

 

[Dwight Ennis]

My experience was the same as Matt's. Is your new loco not running at all, or just running slower than you think it should?

 

[bucknutdave]

so i figured what was wrong, one of the sets of wheels on the tender were switched so caused a short with the insulated vs non-insulated so its running great now. went to an o-scale club and they let me run it on their track, and ran it over a 2.5ft tall trestle and it was AMAZING. with that said, i have one problem.....the set of rear truck wheels that sit under the cab are rubbing agains the bottom of the brass cab and cause yet another short we put a piece of black electrical tape as a temporary fix. almost like the set of wheels there are too big. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT TO DO ABOUT THAT SET OF TRUCK WHEELS SO IT DOESNT RUB AGAINS THE BOTTOM OF THE CAB?

 

[Zonk]

Hmm, i've never had that kind of problem with mine. The only way i could imagine that happening is going upgrade? I've got about an 1/8 inch play on level ground with mine so i could see how it could easily hit the cab. But it seems though as well that the truck frame hits the locmotive frame before the wheels would?

 

[bucknutdave]

so i called precision scale today, unfortunately while i was at work and they told me that the cab floor may be riding on the rear truck wheels due to a busted driver spring....unfortunately im new to everything and i dont really know what that meant so any help would be appreciated!!

 

[Dwight Ennis]

Every driver rides in a bushing which itself rides in the frame. A spring between the top of each bushing and the frame provides "suspension" for the model. You could get a spring from Precision Scale and try to fix it yourself, or you could ship it back to them to fix. I'd probably take the second route since it's a new model. When you get it back, it should be perfect.

 

[bucknutdave]

so im pretty sure that its a weight distribution probelm with my k-28. the only problem is i dont know the best way to add weight to the front of the engine. the smock box is solid but the rest of the boiler is hollow, there is some room above the 1st & 2nd driver wheels behind the lead truck wheels to add weight. wasnt sure if anyone had any helpful advice on how to tackle this. thanx!

 

[Dwight Ennis]

Dave - I still think you should ship it back to Precision Scale to fix. Not only is it new, but I had no similar problems with my K-28. We can take shots in the dark here regarding weight distribution problems, broken suspension springs, etc., but they built the thing and not only know how it should be, but also exactly where to look to find and correct the problem.

I know it's disappointing to have to ship back a brand new locomotive and wait for its return, but in the long run, you'll most likely be happier. MHO.

 

[bucknutdave]

precision scale wouldnt take it back directly b/c i bought it from st aubins.......im stuck in the middle of a feud between the two companies. even though i shouldnt be!!
mark from precision craft refered me to someone but i would have to pay for shipping and then $35/hr for labor! im not very happy AT ALL with precision, its a very big disappointment.
luckily i have a new friend here who has been in On30 for about 25yrs and he's agreed to look at it for free so im going to give it one more shot, his name is matt yokum...he has a small company called Hamm River models.

 

[NBTrainDude]

How on earth would purchasing an engine from St. Aubins void any warranty you might have through Precision Scale? I too have been contemplating buying a K-28, as St Aubins has them on sale for 299.00. However if by doing so, I void the warranty in the event of something wrong with the engine, then forget it!

 

[railgeek]

Send it back to St. Aubins for a refund or replacement. You have a defective product. They will replace it or refund you the $$$$