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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My search did not yield anything (surprisingly): I'm seriously considering the purchase of one of these little table saws from
Micromark. Any suggestion from other owners/users on what accessories and blades to order WITH this. I am primarily interested
in this saw for building wooden structures, and my 10" contractor saw is too large for much of my work.

Thanks in advance!

Tom T.
 

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Hi Tom,

That sounds like a good and very useful saw; I have its smaller brother and use it all the time.

Can I suggest that you look at the following links


http://airfieldmodels.com/informati...ng_tools/microlux_tilting_arbor_table_saw.htm
http://airfieldmodels.com/information_source/model_building_tools/power.htm

look at number 2 first then number one, which can be reached from #2

and the instructions for the saw are at
http://www.micromark.com/html_pages/instructions/80463i/arbor_saw.html

This looks to be a clone, and could well be made by Proxxon of Austria, whose reputation is very good. I wish I could get one at the US price; I live in the UK, where we also use a different voltage. The proxxon one here is the equivalent of $520.

I have a fine blade as well as the standard blade; that is used for cutting styrene sheet thinner that 1mm as it does a far better job than the standard blade; the same would apply to wood of the thinner thicknesses.
 

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I had a Microlux and retired it recently. I replaced it with a small Proxxon FKS-E table saw, which I like better.

 

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Posted By weaverc on 04/26/2008 6:45 PM
I had a Microlux and retired it recently. I replaced it with a small Proxxon FKS-E table saw, which I like better.








We have 2 of these saws and like them, but they didn't machine the guide for the miter gauge to well and they are both a bit sloppy. The rip fence works Ok but you need to play with it to do the job correctly. We use the saws all the time, but find that a fullsize saw works almost as good unless you are doing very small jobs.
 

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Hi Tom,


Type into googel Byrnes Model Machines Check the 4 inch tabel saw, also the review. Seems like a very well made machine.

chuckger
 

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I love my little MicroLux tilt arbor table saw. I see they are not getting any less expensive.

I also purchased and like the high fence, Dado washers and carbide tipped blade. The feather boards were a joke. Make your own.

In addition to wood, it also does a great job on acrylic.

Craig
 

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I have one of those little table saws...and they just don't seem to have the umph to do a good job unless you work real slow. There's another (fantastic) approach that Steve Seidel (dawgnabit) posted two years ago on how to make a "sawmill" that allows you to make precision rip cuts using a 10" table saw. I've bought the material to build this...and a complete set of drawing plans is included in this thread.

http://archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=28015

This is what it looks like.



Look around at some of Dawg's other posts and you can see the ripped siding he made with this jig.

IMHO, I think this is a much better solution IF you have the space for a table saw. In my case, I went out and bought a 10" Ryobi contractor saw. It folds up nicely and has wheels that make it easy to take out to my GRR site for use as a big saw. A new feature on this saw is that it contains a sliding crosscut table which makes doing crosscut very easy. It takes up about 10" of space when folded...so it stores pretty compact. I paid about $200 for it at Home Depot when it was on sale...so half the cost of the little saws. The MSRP is $250. Good saw IMHO. Click here to see saw
 

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All my work is done with a pre 1960's Delta Unisaw. I have a motorised contractors saw that i use for carpentry work.
What i don't like about motorised saws is that I always suspect there is side to side of the blade play wich gives a poor cut.
A belt driven saw with a cast iron top and a good blade is hard to beat. I've cut alot of scale lumber creating zero clearance
around the blade. Also using feather boards, long stock and some one to help. I use alot of rough sawn hard wood scrap
so I will often clean one face and one edge with a jointer. Alot of the new contractor type cast iron saws have pretty good rip fences and the miter guages often have socket screws to take out the slop in miter gauge slot.
 
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