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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The Mason is a great looking and a sweet running loco. The only complaints I have heard is the boiler capacity is too small and have to stop offten to top off. Used an LGB Drovers Caboose for water and pump. it also carries the battery for the R/C. The pump is presentlly controled by a switch that is with the marker lights as an indicator the pump is on. My first run proved the complainers correct, the loco stopped within 15 minutes. It had run out of water, the disk that transferes motion from the servo/motor to the pump arm broke. I made a new one and started all over.
I started the loco with 135mls water in the boiler. The gas lasted 50 minutes. I filled the water bottle 3 times and when it was done had some water left in the tank, the loco had 105mls in the boiler. So it kept the boiler almost constant. I'm happy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Jerry, I find modifying and tinkering with the trains just as rewarding as running, maybe more. It just adds to the fun.
 

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Beautiful engine those Mason Bogies and you are right the run time is short as boiler is small so fitting that pump and extra water in the carriage is a good idea. What electric motor did you use to operate the pump or is it a servo and can it pump against max boiler pressure? Did you gear it down for more torque and if a servo does it operate back and forth or rotary?
Russell
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Bill, it is one beautiful loco, and the rod adjustment for direction is just like the 1:1.
Russell, it is a servo that operates rotary. The engine has a check valve so the flow is into the loco only.
 

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Looks great. I have tried the same thing with my 2 Bogies without much success. I have used 2 different pumps including one designed to work with an electronic water level. I would really love to have a list of the parts you used. Especially the pump, servo, valves, battery and water connections. Thank you, Winn
 

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Winn, you have PM's.
Nick, could you C.C. me on that parts list? And can your R/C rig control the direction via J-bar? I abandoned thoughts of R/C'ing my Bogie because of reports that it was difficult to impossible to change direction.
(And just as an aside, I got one with the axle pump. While it IS finicky, on a good day it can greatly extend your run time.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
When I mentioned about the loco changing directions like the 1:1 I meant with the rods being controlled from the bell support and down to the linkage. The Fwd/Rev can be achieved same as we have other locos, with the lever in the cab. I didn't install the direction servo at the time I was anxious to get some track and test time. But no time like the present. I'll keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Winn, I thought we had, not trusting memory I kept a list of all pieces of rolling stocking and the narrative of locomotive modifications/chages or upgrades on my lap top. Few years ago had a hard drive crash and lost schematics, codes and program changes for the R/C's, etc. Not to mention the pics and videos. A tech from the 'Geek Squad' was able to recover some of the pics and videos, but sadly a lot was lost. One word that I'm not about to forget: BACKUP.
EDIT: don't know if this helps, but Accucraft shows an axle pump made fo the Mason on their web site, ACCESSORIES -- HARDWARE & ACCESSORIES -- (LOAD MORE) AP29-210. Using the performance of the axle pump on why K4 as a judge, IMHO that is the way to go.
 

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Today I took my water car apart and found that the pump is indeed a Regner. I took the pump apart and found a lot of debris inside, mostly thread tape from the water connections on the pump. They appeared to be from the factory assembly as I had never taken the pump before. I can send you the mods I made to my Accucraft Bogie including valve linkage and RC installation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Winn, I started fashioning a bracket for the directional servo, but the weather is so good, and it won't last, I want to be outside running. You have a PM.
 

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I would really love to have a list of the parts you used
Winn,
Kevin S. fitted a big continuous servo in the back of the tender of his EBT #12 and used it to crank the hand-pump. Here's a pic:

61821


This is the Regner, for anyone who hasn't seen it:



This one is from Bill Ford, who unfortunately passed away last year. He had a water level detection system and an option to drive the pump when the water got low. A friend of mine just bought an old Shay and found this system installed, and it appears to work. His page is still active:
Accessories for WLDS

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The Kevin S set up is ingenious, I bet he has many more 'outside the box' mods.
 

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Accucraft still has the axle pump kits for the Mason Bogies....#AP29-210

I prefer axle pumps as they do not require batteries or electronics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I PMed that info to Winn about 3 days ago, see above, but he never responded. I already had the Mason when I got a call that some one had one with the axle pump but preferred not to deal with him. I agree the axle pump is the way to go, no permanent trailing car.
EDIT: for those using electric driven pumps, found this item a few years ago. It uses a channel on your receiver that operates a relay that can ON and Off, that can handle 10A. I ordered one, tested it but didn't permanently install it as the little pump keeps the boiler at 100mls while steaming for an hour. Poll.com Item #2084. also have some other interesting stuff.
 

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Poll.com Item #2084.
That website doesn't seem to work. Did you misspell it?

There's a company in the UK, Model Radio Workshop, which makes small relay devices for plugging in to radio control receivers.
https://modelradioworkshop.co.uk/product-category/power-switching-devices/

(They also have a device called a "sound store" which can be used to sound e.g. your r/c tugboat horn. Tony at RCS uses them for engine whistles on live steam engines with r/c. I have one and it is very impressive.)
 
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