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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Still working on the mason bogie, got the port side piping done and the reverse linkage secure, and on the starboard side I got the reach rod installed to the shifting linkage it is secured to the side of the engine in the black part of the firebox and does not enter into the cab, all the piping and grab rails move forward to remove themselves from the cab this way I can remove the boiler, cab or chassis for repair. Everything is built with styrene except for the bolts which are 2/56 black hex bolts. Next on the list is the sand dome activation bar and pull rod, still waiting on a replacement bell to arrive. More to follow, Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Got a surprise in the mail yesterday from a new friend who donated a beautiful new bell to the project, easy install and now all that is left for the top of the boiler is a new lever and control rod for the sand dome.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Added a little more detail, put a coat of matt on the bell so it would match the brass domes on the steam and sand dome, also installed a leaver at the base of the sand dome along with an activation rod, think I'm pretty much done with the boiler detail except for the builders plates which I have been experimenting with and so far nothing has worked. Had some brass paper that I tried printing on from an image of a real mason bogie plate which looked good on regular white paper but wasn't dark enough to show up well on the brass, might use the sticker end of a 38 caliber shell cartridge, just have to see, till then, Bill
 

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Bill;

Perhaps you could do the printing on clear decal paper, then transfer the decals to the brass paper. I had a similar problem once in HO. Nobody made the black engine numbers on white number board lenses. Finally solved that by applying black dry transfer numbers to white freezer tape. Then cut the freezer tape to fit over the number board lens.

Just a thought,
David Meashey
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Bill;

Perhaps you could do the printing on clear decal paper, then transfer the decals to the brass paper. I had a similar problem once in HO. Nobody made the black engine numbers on white number board lenses. Finally solved that by applying black dry transfer numbers to white freezer tape. Then cut the freezer tape to fit over the number board lens.

Just a thought,
David Meashey
Thanks for the idea, Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Dave, I took your suggestion and so far after a couple of tries I have a good print and placed it on brass/gold foil paper, going to let it dry over night and then laminate it and then cut out, I'll let you know how it goes, Thanks for your suggestion, Bill
 

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Bill, builders plates look great. on30gn15: a very good idea about the hutch, Bill, will we see it on your layout any tie soon??? LiG
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Well right now it's in about 5 pieces, good thing I made it where I could take it apart. When operating it, the motor, on test stand it had a hitch in it, discovered that one of the geared wheels was 1 tooth off easy fix just loosened front end to lower cover and changed the front driver 1 tooth. Then it still was binding on something that's when I found that the valve rod location when being run was being off set by the elastic lift rod string and causing parts of the valve gearing to rub on the chassis. So I relocated the valve rod location and today I will reassemble it and make sure it works before hooking up the R/C system. 2 steps forward and 1 back it seems, more to come, Bill
 

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A Wonder and a Beauty

It is a locomotive of wonder and a beauty to behold. I love its color scheme. I wish I could see it in person, and so I thank you for posting its progress on mylargescale.com
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Like to thank Dave Meashey for his decal paper solution, worked out well, They could have been a little bigger but not something I can't do later Put the printed decal in a hot laminate machine for water proofing and thickness and applied with a dab of glue. While up there I made my bell rope out of twisted strands of wire and colored it with Jax pewter black. Being as the bell didn't have the long spread out activation arms that the original did I put so eyelets on the side of the sand and steam dome for the rope to go thru.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
I made rope from brass wire strands that I place in a drill and twisted. Wasn't to happy with the bell rope as I selected too small a wire to twist and didn't hang right, so I made another using a larger diameter wire and liking the results. Well since last post, I have been researching batteries and types and with the help of several on the forum have selected Lipo, reason being as hobby shops are far and few between in Daytona Beach, Fl. but one that has been around for several years and even thru the down town street redo is High Fly Hobbies. Primarily an R/C plane and car dealer but they have been more than helpful with my small purchases of styrene, brass wire, and paints and I valued their knowledge and that they are local dealer that I can return to if I have questions or problems. Was able to find a battery that along with the Gscalegraphics control board, fits nicely into the tender section of the engine with room left over for their, GSG's, sound board. Have hooked up the speed control and tested and all I can say is there isn't any thing much easer, worked great. The only thing left is to complete the wiring of the R/C system, front headlight, smoke unit and want to put a flickering led's in the fire box, thanks to all with the help and suggestions, more to come, Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Not a lot done but it's something I have been working on for a while now, numbering the engine. Time spent trying to select a number and how to do it, I settled on year built, which I have done before, and but still having problems on how. I usually use a silhouette machine to do lettering but the vinyl does like irregularities especially rivets. The vinyl is flexible but not to the size of the head if a pin, so I thought about spray painting but need a template that would adhere to the surface including rivets. After some research I settled on stencil paper for my machine. First try was great, not only does the stencil paper stay in place, doesn't fold over it's self, but is pretty sticky and weeds well. Still didn't sit down the best on the rivets but was acceptable to the point that over sprays could be dealt with after the fact with a small brush and back ground paint. But then with a brain storm I thought if the stencil was more flexible maybe it would contour better. 15 minutes in the sun seemed about right and firm pressure with my thumb on the stencil was all it took, only a couple of spots that paint crept under the stencil but not bad. Now it's not the engine anymore now it's #"19" Again pleased with the results and now working on hiding the wiring for the engine from front to rear. More to come, Bill
 
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