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Looking for input on an indoor train yard/storage

683 Views 7 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  mickey
I am looking for suggestions as to how to layout the indoor train yard and storage. Below is a portion out the planned retirement house basement that has been assigned to me. I have no leeway for moving walls, etc. I must live with the space as is. I plan to run the trains in and out of here with a pass thru opening which will have a closure to seal the outside weather. It is NOT a 2 foot door, just an opening in the wall with whatever width I need up to the 2 foot. The top (north) section is 2 foot wide where I will run the trains in/out via 2 lines going thru the opening with a very little space on the west side to squeeze thru if I need to mess with any sort of problems. I know that is tight but that bench will be supported from the wall so I will have plenty of toe space. Worse case, I might add an access port on the back wall of that closet in the guest room. the bench will be built up to waist height (or other suggested input) which will match the base elevation of the outside layout. I get allocated that 7 by 2 foot run AND another 12 to 14 foot of the depth. In that area I want to have the ability for the trains to loop and multiple sidings for storing the trains and cars. I have 12 steam engines and will have a freight, an ore, a log, a passenger and a work consist to park on separate tracks plus some shorter engine parking sidings. So I’m trying to figure out how close the sidings (if that’s the correct term) tracks could/should be and the lengths for storage. My initial thoughts are to come in on the west line and loop back with the storage sidings in that 9 foot area and then loop go back out on the east line. I will have a lifting bridge so I can get into the middle of all this. My goal is to not have to take cars and engines on and off the tracks except when I take them upstairs to work on. Suggestions please. Below are a few crude mock-ups but it is finger drawn so curves are not accurate, etc.

Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern Drawing

Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern Plan
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Having had a bit of experience in the matter , I think I can provide some advice. First to what scale are you working (1/32, 1/29 or 1/22 or even larger scale? second I would definitly rule out putting a double track in that very tight isle of only two foot width. Why not provide a turnout and single track? Especially if you are in the larger scales. Also your yard is very short, which may not be a problem if you do narrow gauge, but certainly would not alow much storage, dont overlook that model railroading is a cumulative hobby, as time wears on you aquire more and more rolling stock which will have to be stored off space. Waist high is fine and allows track work to be accessible, I would build some shelves under your benchwork for storing futur equipment. In 1/32 scale I use
Train Track Rolling stock Railway Vehicle

4 and 1/4" track spacing which is very tight. First photo shows the Pennsy yard on the left, see the shelving under the benchwork. On the second photo, on the right is the French SNCF and NORD yard, you can also see how quickly a fiddle yard can fill up with equipment, at least if you model class one railroads. Larger spacing is for small passenger platforms which should be installed in the futur.
Pipeline transport Mode of transport Thoroughfare Composite material Engineering

Cheers, Simon
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I am in the Bachmann steam which us 1:20 scale. This area is simply the storage area indoors. The actual running layout will be outdoors. My main concern is how much space between tracks. I agree my sidings may very well increase in number and length. The loop will be a 10’ diameter which will handle any of my stuff.
Are TrainLi Pro switches radius terms the same as LGB. I currently have several R4 and an R7.
no... train-li numbers refer to the actual radius in feet.... LGB is different, and so is Piko...

See the charts on this page:

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As I think this through I remember I have a piece of Aristo track that was a special piece to create a parallel siding. Without going to flex track, what curves do you use coming off the switch, and does it then come off parallel? And what spacing does it provide between the lines?
The special piece was only with the #6 switch, usually too big for a switchyard.

The addition of the special piece made a parallel track. As I remember I was not impressed with the track to track spacing. I don't remember what it was, I don't think it was ever specified.

The extra piece of track disappeared in later batches I believe.

I use all Aristo Wide radius switches for my ladder, I like the spacing, pretty compact but you can still reach in and pluck out cars.

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Here is my current idea. Most curves are 8’ diameter except the right one which is 10’. I have 10 engines and want them all to be stored on track. And want to be able to run them in a circle still inside. I’m not really trying to set it up for ops but will obviously be creating and changing consists and who knows for the future. The one place where the track cuts the corner of the wall, I will be talking to the builder to see if we can shave that corner since it’s actually a cement wall (walk out basement) to a 45. If not the I just slid the whole thing to the right. I’m still playing with another approach. Give me your input and/or issues you see with this approach.

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