[OldNoob]

SO FRUSTRATING!!!
No matter how light or dark, or tone , i just cannot get the blue in the decal to show up!! its always looks black or blueish black. I tried just cyan ink and it turned out green
I used up all my decal paper!!
Probably has something to do with that "School Bus" yellow.
AND even after all that... i got the decal in the wrong place

 

[nscaler711]

Honestly. I'm glad you picked Santa Fe. It looks great.
I missed alot and really glad you went with blue pilots, that's how they are on the prototype.

As for brake lines, at least you aren't doing them in N scale.

 

[OldNoob]

This is why farm implement rattle can paint is not the best for modeling

I have just sanded it back down and repainted it but wont know if there is an improvement until it dries 48 hours later.

 

[nscaler711]

How far away are you spraying from the model? Also temperature will play a big part in the paint drying.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Makes me want to eat an orange (classic "orange peel" finish)

Greg

 

[trainmanfw&sw]

I guess all my post on painting were waisted post, yes there is an art to painting. Sorry to see all your hard work endup with a poorly painted model. I'm not saying it hasn't happened to me, it has, I just removed all the paint and started over, that's good enough reason to do it right the first time. Once again too many coats, or not applied correctly, common problem when applying with spray cans, plus that much paint may never dry, you may get cracking down the line from the underneath paint still trying to dry and you covered it up with more paint.

trainman

 

[OldNoob]

Ok sanded resprayed with piece hanging upside down. its a little better. Flat coat should hide most of this.
Aparently Krylon primer dosn't work easily with generic tractor supply paint. I really do not like this brand of paint but sadly it was the only school bus yellow i could find locally. Difinetly going to put in an internet order for some Tamiya or Testors modeling Paints.
And maybe dust off the old airbrush compressor for the next model.

 

[trainmanfw&sw]

That looks much better, glad to see it's working out for you, painting can really be a PITA for sure.

trainman

 

[OldNoob]

Front railing is done. I decided to just reuse the old lionel stanchions instead of making new ones, as they press right in. they are a bit thick . no real exuses here except ,, im lazy.

 

[OldNoob]

Rear railing is done. Now to think about the roof mounted AC unit

 

[OldNoob]

Frankenlionel cab is ready for dull coat.

 

[OldNoob]

When you've been hanging on to that FDD to IDE adapter since 1993 because you thought you just might have a use for it some day.

 

[OldNoob]

Slowly moving to lighting

 

[Nick Jr]

Slowly, but beautifully, can't wait till the next installment. And I too keep parts for years, never know when you will need them, and in today's atmosphere no longer available.

 

[OldNoob]

Attempting to make Ditch Lights. But they kinda look more like HEP connector boxes

 

[Paul Burch]

You might take a look at the ones offered by Ozark. I have used them on several occasions. ditch lights – ozarkminiatures
I think I used 3mm leds in them

.

Kind of a different look on this SD40R but prototypical for this S.P. rebuild. Same ditch light casting on top of MU connectors also from Ozark.

 

[OldNoob]

Power boxes it is then.

 

[OldNoob]

You might take a look at the ones offered by Ozark. I have used them on several occasions. ditch lights – ozarkminiatures
I think I used 3mm leds in them

That's actually pretty affordable!

 

[Paul Burch]

OldNoob,
They work well. Ozark also has a speedometer cable that might work on your geep. Made for 1/29 but still should work since you are using USA trucks.
Most all my diesels get them..

 

[OldNoob]

It's a madness i tell ya.
I really need one of those 3d printers. i know i could produce better precision with one.