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Hi all,


I'm new here so please forgive me if this has already been answered before. I just purchased an LGB 2019s Colorado & Southern mogul with analog sound, and I would like to eventually upgrade it to digital. I have been looking into using the LGB american steam digital sound box. My main question is, is there any way to hook that system up to (what I call) the "chuff sensor" that is already on these engines (on the rear drive axle in the gearbox) so that the timing of the chuff will be the same as it is now with the current analog system? Same question also goes for  Phoenix and Sierra Soundtraxx. Reason I ask is that I am not very good with installing small parts (well, of the electrical nature anyway) and would like to avoid having to install a separate reed switch or magnet sensor for the chug when the locomotive already has one from the factory. As I said, I was especially looking at the LGB system in the hopes that it might even make things easier to "plug and play" by simply connecting the existing locomotive to tender cable. But if the other systems are capable of being installed in a similar manner, then I may look into them as well. Thanks everyone, and if I have butchered some terms please forgive me as I have more of the "rods and wheels" type knowledge than "circuit boards and wiring". /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blush.gif


Thanks!


Andrew Dean


De Soto, MO
 

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The 65xxx series of LGB sound units do not support a chuff sensor, but do have MTS built in.

They do support a special cable for the whistle and bell adapter to mount on the tender truck, plus a capacitor storage bank for track powered locos in linear mode.

Sender is under $20, but capacitor pack goes for $60.

By the time you buy this sound unit, capacitor and sender, you might just as well get the 69232 tender with sound.
Rip out the sound from the 69232 and you still have a piece of rolling stock with metal wheels!!
 

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Andrew, I would certainly agree that the LGB sound tender is a very viable solution.  I've removed that sound and installed it in another application using the reed switches from the front truck of the tender.  After I completely gutted it, I sold the tender and recovered a good deal of my original purchase.  I have the wiring diagram if you need it.  /Providers/HtmlEditorProviders/Fck/FCKeditor/editor/images/smiley/msn/regular_smile.gif:D
 

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Posted By Stan Cedarleaf on 01/06/2008 8:14 PM


Andrew, I would certainly agree that the LGB 69232 sound tender is a very viable solution.  I've removed that sound and installed it in another application using the reed switches from the front truck of the tender.  After I completely gutted it, I sold the tender and recovered a good deal of my original purchase.  I have the wiring diagram if you need it.  /Providers/HtmlEditorProviders/Fck/FCKeditor/editor/images/smiley/msn/regular_smile.gif:D



 
 

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Dan and Stan,
That is a great idea! I had never thought of buying the sound tender and just using the unit out of it. Sounds like it's an all in one package. Stan, if you could send me a copy of the wiring diagram, that would be great. Also as a side question, I have yet to have the 2019s tender apart, but have been told that the analog system looks quite intimidating. Are there any wires or circuits in particular that I will need to be careful of when removing the old analog unit? Not sure as to when I will get time to work on it, but when I do, at least I'll be pointed in the right direction instead of snipping and soldering wires "in the dark."
Thanks a lot guys! I am so glad I joined this forum!

-Andrew
 

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Andrew, Dan and Stan,


I also have an old 2019S who's analong sound unit has died.  I will be replacing that with a Phoenix 2K2 sound card.


Andrew-  I have installed two Phoenix sound systems (aristo Mikado and USA F3), and the hardest part was installing the speaker.  Since I assume you plan to use the existing speaker, volume knob, on off switch, reed switches, and chuff sensor,  I imagine this would not be all that difficult an install.  I know the LGB seems like the best way to go, but before you do that, you should know the options with the Phoenix. The 2K2 card is really pretty easy to install, and comes with the battery for those low voltages. I have purchased the programming cable, and with that, I can load and reload any number of whistles/ bells/ functions.  I like how configurable the Phoenix is, and despite the high price, I feel it is money well spent. 


As far as ripping out the old unit, I am not much help, not having done it myself.  However, all you'd really need to do is be careful, and take your time.  I'd imagine that the input wires would be soldered to the board, so you'd have to trace them.  They might even be labeled.  The LGB Mikado board was well labeled but that was a production run of almost 15 years later.  Just label them before you cut. so you know what goes where. 


Since I know it doesn't work anymore, maybe I'll take a look under the tender to see what's happening in there.


Mark
 

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Hi Stan,

Could I get a copy of the wiring diagram for the LGB 69232 tender sound. I am thinking of adding sound to a 2018D mogul and this seems to be a good alternative to the Phoinex sound card, and also a lot less expensive. I haven't recieved the loco yet but I assume that there is plenty of room in the 2018D tender to adapt this sound system. Also does the sound from this tender have a speed sensor and bell and wistle reed switches?

Any info would help.


Thanks, Tolly
 

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The 69232 has the dual reed that LGB made that attaches to a 2 axle truck.
No sensor for chuff capability.

The 69232 was made to attach only to the new 2-4-0 series of engines as these engines had the switch that controlled the light and sound in the tender with the 5 wire cable, hence a wiring diagram/instructions are needed.
Tender light appears to be a new 8 volt type.

Stan, please send me a diagram copy: [email protected].
 

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Dan/Tolly.....  here's an image of the hookups on the board.  Just bring your power wires in at the pins on the white arrows.  Speaker and rear light connections stay the same on the board.  
 
This is the pin assignment I received from LGBOA a couple of years ago for my hookups.  The last image is the pin designation from left to right looking at the front if the 69232 tender.
 
 
 

This is what is coming out of the loco to the tender as per his diagram designations:
 
Pin 1    =    Track Power Right (constant to rear outlet)
Pin 2    =    Rear Light Common
Pin 3    =    Rear Light
Pin 4    =    Switched Track Power Right (for soundboard power only)
Pin 5    =    Track Power left (to rear outlet and soundboard)

 
It works right nicely...  
 

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