[RioScott]

Does anyone know the type of Plastic that LGB uses to make their passenger cars and any type of glue that will work to glue on parts. Have tried some hobby cements but they fail after exposure to heat and cold. Have talked to a leading manufacture of adhesives , but need to know the type of plastic used by LGB. Thanks

 

[Axel Tillmann]

LGB Germany used Luran S a trademark of BASF. I think it was never published what it was, some poeple claim it was a derivative of HDPE, I doubt it. But one thing is for sire, LGB Plastic doesn't glue well at all. The way to "fuse" LGB plastic together is MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone). In some lucky states Lowes carries it in their paint department in most states you need to find a chemical supply store to buy it. I don't if you find mail order.

The trick is to use enough time and liquid to soften the plastic ends and then press them together. The softened plastic hardens out the a joint is s good as new, with a little welt (more or less). Unfortunately you will loose 1/32" or maybe 1/16" in the length. Alternativly you can use a piece of ABS and melt it in a little jar with MEK, briefly wet the LGB parts and then dip them in the melted ABS and then join them together and you may not loose the 1/32 - 1/16.

Any glue I ever tried failed - sooner or later (more sooner).

 

[jgallaway81]

I've never hacked an LGB engine, but the Aristo stuff I've abused has worked well using a method I devised... the scrap styrene from kitbashing gets placed into an empty Plasti-Weld jar. When its full, poor some fresh plastiweld over it. long term soaking will cause the styrene to melt. If you use just teh right amount of solvent you will get a putty-consistence. use this just as you would any other type of modeling putty. Because it is plastic, once the solvent dries out, you will get a plastic weld, which sands smooth just like the parts you were cementing together.

Now, the question is, would this solution work with LGB plastics? I can't answer that one for you.

 

[Spule 4]

I second the MEK comments from Axel. Basically the same stuff that the Testors solvent glue is (was?) but when you can buy a quart can for the price of a 1/8 cup jar...

Do not confuse MEK with MC (Methylene Chloride). Whole different beast. The Tennax brand glue from Tennessee that used to be sold at a lot of model shops is/was nearly pure MC. Nasty stuff.

Even after LGB quit using Luran S in the 1990s, they continued to use automotive grade plastic, BASF Ultraform and Ultramid. The advantage is strong, durable, UV resistant trains. The downside is as Axel points out, they don't take glue and are fairly solvent resistant.

I have had some luck with the Pola (contained MEK) tube glue on Luran parts, but event that glue is hard to find.

 

[Axel Tillmann]

Plasti-Weld is watered down MEK. That's why it takes forever. But even for MEK to work you need enough surface area. Broken side-rods are a bear. Very often they brake and leave a rounded surface. There you need dissolved ABS or if you have old LGB plastic dissolved in MEK while you have soaked the end of the broken side rod in MEK as well.

Kitbashers which saw cars apart and then glue them with other parts back together have great success with MEK and an addtional styrene strip on the backside for extra strength. Since inside the engine it is not seen. Lots of sanding and additional autobody filler applications make for a new smooth surface. I redid a whole LGB engine this way (RhB Diesel).

 

[NavyTech]

I have been very successful with Amazing Goop. I have glued plastic to steel and just about anything with it and has held up great.

 

[SE18]

If you use goop, rough the plastic with sandpaper; the other methods outlined above sound interesting

 

[rwbrashear]

Hello,

Up until the early 2000's, LGB used BASF Luran-S plastic for body shells.

http://www.basf.com/group/corporate...ASA_ASA_PC

http://www.plasticsportal.net/wa/pl...cs/luran_s


After the early 2000's LGB switched to BASF Ultraform and Ultramid. As LGB moved to smaller production batches, the new resins facilitated smaller lots of custom colors. See page #19 of the 'LGB Quality Facts' bulletin:
http://www.champex-linden.de/downlo..._facts.pdf

Technical information for Ultramid and Ultramid can be found on the BASF website.


I've always had good success using Technicoll 8008 with LGB Luran-S. The solvent adhesive is sold by some of the specialty LGB retailers in Germany.

http://www.technicoll.eu/de/catalog...5QodHjpymw

Champex-Linden website:
http://www.champex-linden.de/cl_pr_zubehoer.htm
(Technicoll 8008 is listed near the bottom)

Here is a direct link to the MSDS. Under section 3, you can see a listing of the solvents used:
http://www.technicoll.eu/de/downloa...g-tube.pdf

If you don't want to order the material from Germany, you may be able to find a similar solvent cocktail in the States.

Best regards,
Bob

 

[aceinspp]

I have used 3M auto motive adhesive. It tends to soften the plastic to weld then hardens. Have used it on quite a few different types builds /repairs. Later RJD

 

[Spule 4]

Posted By Axel Tillmann on 15 Jul 2010 11:11 PM
Broken side-rods are a bear. Very often they brake and leave a rounded surface. There you need dissolved ABS or if you have old LGB plastic dissolved in MEK while you have soaked the end of the broken side rod in MEK as well.



True. Unfortunately, I have a broken siderod on a U class (common problem apparently with that specific loco) and have to RE-glue it. Gotta use more MEK this time!

 

[Axel Tillmann]

I have the side-rod in stock

 

[Spule 4]

Hmm, what about those 2015 rails? I will send you an e-mail off board tomorrow Axel!

 

[Russell Miller]

I've had really good luck using the solvent cements available from IPS Corporation[/b]. Their plastic cements, including the ever popular Weld-On #16[/b] are available at TAP Plastics[/b]. The Weld-On #16 contains MEK along with Methylene Cholride and Methyl Methacrylate Monomer.
Russ