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A train set from the estate of a Conrail executive. 0-4-0 loco, 2 coaches, circle of track, power pack and 4 people. Shows little sign of wear, as it was only used around the christmas tree. Loco flagstaffs missing/broken.
Paypal or cash/check accepted, $235 plus shipping.
 

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Super Modulator
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Pete, does the loco have a "D" in the bottom gearbox cover, or any stickers?

Trying to determine if a 3 wire or 4 wire motor block. (4 wire much easier to DCC).

Thanks, Greg - 16
 

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Super Modulator
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A picture of the bottom of the loco, close up will do...

(also for any loco, a picture of the wheels and skates is very helpful)

Thanks, Greg
 

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Super Modulator
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Korm, a "D" in the part number means smoke.

The "D" impressed on the gearbox cover (as clearly stated in my post) means "Digital Ready", basically at least a "4 wire" gearbox as opposed to the "3 wire"... more information here:

https://elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=584&Itemid=713

No reason to repeat it all here... not a perfect test alone... just trying to get clues on the DCC conversion effort.

Greg - 11 - final countdown anyway...
 

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Super Modulator
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Thanks Pete, looks like it is pretty old, January 1995, and no clues for a 4 wire motor block, so a bit more difficult for us DCC guys.

Probably made of the best plastic ever though, in the days of quality.

Greg - 2 to go
 

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Converting to DCC is easy as a decoder with sound can be fit in the water tank. For engine only I used the Zimo MX645, but for engine and powered yellow tender I used the MX696 which just fits in the water tank and controls both engine and tender. Biggest issue is speaker in the engine, I put mine on the cab floor.
 

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But I'd still have to split the motor block to separate a motor and pickup wire, right? Had a Forney from a collection once and it did not run, turns out someone disassembled it and added an insulating sleeve to one of the "bus bars" inside to disconnect the motor. I wanted something with a socket inside, i.e. digital ready.

Thanks for the effort Pete, and will see you on the other forum. It's a good price and I'm sure someone will buy it soon.

Greg - one more to go.
 

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I have seen several methods used for isolating the motor lead.

Finger nail polish... I do not do this for fear that the polish could wear and smoke the decoder.

Heat shrink tubing...I do not do this either for the smae reason as above.

Drill hole near outside of case near single pin (this will mark the motor lead) and then cut the motor lead short. Then add wire directly to motor lead which can now not ever touch the track pin.
 

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I can see the smoke unit is tied to track power and is most likely the 3 wire version of the motor block. Good news it is the model with metal side rods.
 
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