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Discussion Starter #1
HI GUYS.....MY MOST RELIABLE LOCO STARTED SLIPPING YESTERDAY. I'M GUESSING ITS THE DRIVE GEAR. I HAVE NEVER DISASSEMBLED ONE BEFORE. IS IT A MAJOR UNDERTAKING TO REPLACE ONE OF THESE GEARS AND WHERE DO I GET A NEW GEAR?
I'M STILL PRETTY GREEN WHEN IT COMES TO THIS FANTASTIC HOBBY OF OURS. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON REMEDING MY PROBLEM WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.THANKS ROB
 

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The most likely culprit would be the idler gears. Pretty easy thing to replace as long as you quarter the wheels when putting the engine back together. Train-Li-USA im sure has the gears. You can find them other places also like ebay and some other hobby shops. Do some searches ,there is plenty of threads on this site and others that talk about taking on this task.

I would recommend cleaning the gear box out of all the old grease as there is likely pieces of chewed up plastic mixed with the grease. Which in turn can cause premature failure of your new gears. So after you clean out all the old grease , relubricate and your good to go. Use small amounts though. To much grease is not a good thing ,expecially if it gets into your motor and gunks up the brushes. There is also PDF files listed for the 2019s online you can use for free. I will send you an email. The Roundhouse RnR
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks so much for your info. i do have a another question tho.......what is quartering the wheels? sorry.......i'm still a green horn when it comes to tech stuff.
 

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I haven’t pulled one apart for a while, but these two threads may be of help.

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aft/121503/Default.aspx

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/afv/topic/aff/23/aft/8637/Default.aspx

The driving wheels on a steam loco need to be in quarter, all the wheels need to be in the same position, if not the side rods can not be put on. Wheels on one side of the loco are a quarter of a turn ahead of the other side. Hope that helps

Alan
 

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Remove the motor block and wheels from the boiler. It is a lot easier to get to the idler gears from the top. It has been a few years since I've replaced the gears, but this is how my senior memory thinks it goes. I haven't had to replace the gears since I removed the added weight from the engine and started pulling shorter trains.

As I recall there are three screws: one that holds the pilot truck, and two, one on each side of the cab. The motor block should then come right off. Note which wires go on which pins on the top of the motor block and then unplug. There are 6 screws on top of the motor block, remove them and lift of the cover. Then lift out the motor and then you can get to the idler gears. If you are careful you shouldn't have to turn the wheels and then have to worry about quartering.

Chuck
 

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Removing the idler gears from the top of the motor block is the only way. There are 5 screws to drop the motor block from the boiler and the cab. One in the front behind the pilot. Two on both sides of the cab. Two go up into the cab and the other two go into the side of the motor block. Remove the pilot supports and the motor block drops out . There are three wires brown , white and green. Pull them off, and if you have the 2019S with sound there is also and 3 pin connector that goes to the board in the cab for the chuff sensor. Remove the 3 pin connector and then the motor block comes free from the boiler.

You should really pull the motor block apart completly to remove all the old grease and debri from the motor block. That means pulling all the wheels, so you will have to quarter them.
Did you get my email? The Roundhouse RnR
 

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Removing the idler gears from the top of the motor block is the only way. There are 5 screws to drop the motor block from the boiler and the cab. One in the front behind the pilot. Two on both sides of the cab. Two go up into the cab and the other two go into the side of the motor block. Remove the pilot supports and the motor block drops out . There are three wires brown , white and green. Pull them off, and if you have the 2019S with sound there is also and 3 pin connector that goes to the board in the cab for the chuff sensor. Remove the 3 pin connector and then the motor block comes free from the boiler.

You should really pull the motor block apart completly to remove all the old grease and debri from the motor block. That means pulling all the wheels, so you will have to quarter them.
Did you get my email? The Roundhouse RnR
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks so much guys for your input. this ionfo will really help me. Is there a place that sells the gears that can be recommended?
thanks again, Rob
 

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Rob:

Train-Li, one of the sponsors here on MLS has a large selection of LGB replacement parts. Axel Tillman the owner is very helpful. He sponsors the Product Reviews forum. Go there and click on his ad at the top of the page.

Chuck
 

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If you are not sure about changing out the gears, or quartering, we at Train-Li can help you.

You can send us the whole engine, just the motor block, or just order the idler gears, your choice.

Biggest issue with sending trains is packing. Original boxes with additional packing is needed as we see a lot of shipping damage when units are just wrapped in bubble pack, or some internal packing blocks are omitted.
Even Marklin made errors in the first production runs with packaging. Paint will wear when rubbing on foam, loose plastic sheets are great for protection in the original boxes. Just using a trash bag can stop a lot of wear.
 
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