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Discussion Starter #1
I'm considering converting all my couplers to kadees.. What kaydee # coupler would I need to replace all the Bachmann couplers I have on my rolling stock, all truck mounts ????

I have an assortmant of Bachmann, USA & Aristo cars, USA Diesel Locos and Bachmann Big Haulers steamers.

There's just so many.. I'm lost.

DF
 

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Dave

Kadees come in a variety of mounts and styles to fit most any large scale equipment.

The first step is to decide if you will use #1 scale or the G scale couplers - the #1 is aimed at 1:29 while the G is aimed at 1:22.5 and larger but many modelers choose the opposite.

Kadee has a list of conversions on their website at http://www.kadee.com/conv/page-c3.htm If what you want isnt listed, a call to Kadee will get you the info.

Regards ... Doug
 

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I use the #831's on all my truckmounted Aristo & Bachman cars, a very easy conversion. I also used them on my NW-2, FA, and Lil Critter.
 
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Dave,
Take a piece of advice and body mount all your couplers. little more work but much better for pulling and backing trains. most cars will take the larger kadee like a 789 but if you want slack action 830's are the way to go:D i have a 50/50 mix and they work well, some had said they had minor clearance issues with 830's on 10ft dia, but i have not had any problems with them...
Nick
 
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heres a short video from a couple of weeks ago. i took some engines and 22 pieces of rolling stock over to a freinds to run and they run flawless with kadees even on uneven track
Nick..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Looks like the consensus is the 831s.. thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it.

Nick: Great video, loved it, looks like you guys had some fun.
 

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Dave,

I cut the shanks on the trucks off about 1/4"+ to make them shorter. If you look you will see a second hole that will fit just about perfect to screw the 831's on. The shorter truck shanks helps to reduce the "droop" on the couplers as well as bringing the cars closer together for a better look.
 

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If you decide on the G couplers, I suggest that you try a few of the 830s and the 831s to find out which one you prefer. I started with 831s, but switched to 830s except for cabooses where I still use 831s. For locomotives I use whatever Kadee recommends. --Bert
 
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Posted By jtutwiler on 08/18/2008 8:34 PM
Hey Nick, Do you know what sound system is in that Aristo Mikado?
Thanks
JT




JT,
Thats MTH dcs control and sound in the pacific. after many hours of quartering and sodering in the motor blocks to fix what aristo did in making these things far lees than perfect, it got dcs's and it runs flawless now but i will not pull much more than 3 cars for fear the drivers will slip again. go to my youtube page and you can see my miakdo as well:D
Nick
 

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Dave,

Here is my 2 cents. I love Kadees, but I would put in a plug for the smaller #1 size (820, 821) or the rust collered variety (920, 921). From your previous posts, you seem to have 1/29 equipment and I like the look of the smaller coupler. I also echo the above remarks on body mounting--though that depends on your minimum radius curves, though yours look pretty borad on the postings of your new S.O.B. layout.

Here are some photos of my conversions, and a photo of the most important thing you need; the 829 (#1) or 880 (G) height guage!!!!!



My aristo covered hopper, just the box is mounted the coupler still need to be painted. This is an 820 on a piece of PVC. I tent to drill and tap for screws, rather than glue my boxes on. And with those coal drags you are running, that might be a great idea.



These also might help. Cut the tongue off the aristo truck (this one is primed waiting for paint):



This is an LGB tank car with the short 821:



And my most involved conversion--a custom coupler pocket for an 820 on my Aristo Evans box car--this is supposed to look like the prototype cushon unerframe, they really do stick out from the body like this:



As you will also notice, I cut off the trip pins. I don't use them and I will place "air hoses" on my equipment. This is a purely cosmetic choice. I use a razor saw now, careful with a dremel--the trip pins can get hot enough to melt the coupler enough so it does not work--you can guess how I figured that one out!

Hope this helps.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Again, thanks everyone.

Just for information sake. On the newly expanded Lone Peak & Western, on the mainline, the north turnaround loop is all 8' dia. The South loop is all 10' dia.

I do have an S-curve issue behind the shed that will be removed shortly, so I won't worry you with that for now.

Currently all my switches are short (std) LGB & Aristo. There are 5 of them. As time and $$$ allow all of them will be changed out for Aristo wide radius turnouts (10' dia I believe).

So, assuming that my MINIMUM turn diameter is 8' , would the 831 (or 821) still be applicable as a body mount? Or am I still better off leaving them as a truck mount?
 
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Dave,
you can use 789's to body mount for 8ft dia curves but i wouldnt go below that...
Nick
 

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Our club uses body-mounted, Gauge 1, Kadee 820s on our freight cars. They function well during our railway operations.

There are several articles on our club web site on how to mount them on various cars.





On the Evans boxcar the coupler tang can be left on. It will clear the frame when the truck is turned around.



If you are interested in the articles just click on the link.
Modeling Tips
 

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On most USA, LGB, and Aristocraft equipment you have to shim down the kadee coupler to get it at the correct height to match the Kadee coupler height gauge. Since most cars need to be shimed the same amount, I could never figure out why Kadee never made a comericial shim to sell with their couplers. Seams to me there would be a big market for it.
 
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