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Since the performance of a Bark Box in my K-27 was so successful, I also purchased one for my K-28. It arrived a few months ago before my K-28 did and sat in my 'to do' box until today. Installation in my K-27 was easy, but I was intimidated by the thought of removing the smoke box cover from my K-28, given all the attached details. Today is a dreary day and with nothing better to do, I tackled the job. I'm providing a brief description of what I did because the installation instructions that come with the unit are very basic. Sorry, I did not take pictures, but the explanations below will be come evident if you attampt an installation.
Removing the smoke box cover turned out not to be as hard as I imagined. I learned that I had to loosen the left front fender so that there was clearance for forward movement of a rearward facing pipe on the lower left that has a fat round thingy on it. I also had to loosen the two forward most mounts of the railings on both sides so the front of it could be raised over the headlight. I removed the simulated wires to the lights that just pull out rearward. One long pipe on the left side was just stuck in a hole in a fixture on the cover and did not have to be cut or desoldered. As a matter of fact, nothing had to be cut or broken to remove the smoke box cover, which by the way is a pressed fit with only one little bolt holding it at the top. Once the cover was off, I removed the smoke stack. I then removed the exhaust pipe, made the measurement per the instructions, and cut it. It was cut so that the Bark Box does not touch the preheater tube and clears the smoke stack nut by at least 1/8th of an inch. After removing the inside burrs with a reamer and the outside burrs with a file, I used a piece of stiff hose to help guide and screw the exhaust pipe back into its threads. The Bark Box just slips over the exhaust pipe. As instructed, I reinstalled the smoke stack without the brass spacer to provide clearance.
I pressed the cover back in place and replaced the single bolt on top. The rest of the assembly process was easy, but tedious. I reinstalled the fender first, then the railing clamps. Finally, I put the simulated light wire back in place with a small drop of super glue on the end that goes in the junction box and also where it passes through the right running light bracket.
I steamed up and ran the K-28 for about 15 minutes without any cars and the Bark Box makes noise as advertised just like my K-27. I plan to take a video of my K-28 on some nicely lit day with a load of cars that should make the unit bark. If you are curious about how a bark box sounds, you can see my K-27 video at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slPA4GyoPEg
Removing the smoke box cover turned out not to be as hard as I imagined. I learned that I had to loosen the left front fender so that there was clearance for forward movement of a rearward facing pipe on the lower left that has a fat round thingy on it. I also had to loosen the two forward most mounts of the railings on both sides so the front of it could be raised over the headlight. I removed the simulated wires to the lights that just pull out rearward. One long pipe on the left side was just stuck in a hole in a fixture on the cover and did not have to be cut or desoldered. As a matter of fact, nothing had to be cut or broken to remove the smoke box cover, which by the way is a pressed fit with only one little bolt holding it at the top. Once the cover was off, I removed the smoke stack. I then removed the exhaust pipe, made the measurement per the instructions, and cut it. It was cut so that the Bark Box does not touch the preheater tube and clears the smoke stack nut by at least 1/8th of an inch. After removing the inside burrs with a reamer and the outside burrs with a file, I used a piece of stiff hose to help guide and screw the exhaust pipe back into its threads. The Bark Box just slips over the exhaust pipe. As instructed, I reinstalled the smoke stack without the brass spacer to provide clearance.
I pressed the cover back in place and replaced the single bolt on top. The rest of the assembly process was easy, but tedious. I reinstalled the fender first, then the railing clamps. Finally, I put the simulated light wire back in place with a small drop of super glue on the end that goes in the junction box and also where it passes through the right running light bracket.
I steamed up and ran the K-28 for about 15 minutes without any cars and the Bark Box makes noise as advertised just like my K-27. I plan to take a video of my K-28 on some nicely lit day with a load of cars that should make the unit bark. If you are curious about how a bark box sounds, you can see my K-27 video at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slPA4GyoPEg
