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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The new K-27 is a great engine but...getting the plugs apart between the engine and the tender was going to create a problem sometime in the future.
The best solution was to build a carry case that would allow the engine and tender to stay together.

Jack Thompson posted a great idea for a carry case that allowed the engine to be run into the case on track power. I liked that idea so, thank you Jack, I copied that part for my case.  I needed to modify his idea so that other items could be stacked on top of the case so a closed design was used.

I wasn't sure that his yardstick idea would allow the case to be wide/strong enough, so I came up with an alternative. I had some aluminum tape around the shop and so I decided to use that to allow track power to be transferred to the engines wheels.


I built the case out of 3/8" Baltic plywood with 1/4 round added for additional support. The case is held together with Gorrila glue. The latch on the front was added to make sure that the open bottom of the case doesn't get any wider during transit.


Doors were added to each side so that foam could hold the engine.


The base is made from a piece of oak that I had around. The floor spacing is wide enough to allow the wheels to ride on the edge. I wrapped the aluminum tape around this edge so that the wheels would sit on it and the tape would contact the track as well.



I found that if you use too much foam, you can't get the doors to close so pieces were placed where they did the most good.



I cut a dado on the underside to allow the whole case to sit on the track



The engine drives out of the case very nicely under its own power after I beveled the front of the floor to make sure everything cleared as it goes in and out.
 

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Dave, great looking case and I like how the engine can be pulled in! Can you provide dimensions?

When you say you used aluminum tape how does that work since it doesn't conduct electricity, or does it?
 

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Posted By jimtyp on 02/20/2008 4:21 PM
Dave, great looking case and I like how the engine can be pulled in! Can you provide dimensions?

When you say you used aluminum tape how does that work since it doesn't conduct electricity, or does it?

Jim -

It sure does (remember that when moving aluminum ladders around power lines.) Since all my locos are battery-powered now, it really doesn't matter anymore, but I still use aluminum for the rails.

Here's what Dave was talking about - a couple of shots of the carriers I came up with.





To see more, click on my name below and go to the "How-To" dropdown menu.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The cases inside dimensions are 7.5" wide by 8.5" high by 37" long. That allow me to use 1.5" thick foam to hold everything in place.
 

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Many thanks Jack and Dave! I'm overloaded on projects but this is going to have to be a priority, as I hate removing those plugs!
 

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I've built a K-27 carrying thingamajig that I find suitable as it holds the unit firmly and protects in a rollover. The end blocks are detached with thumb screws and blind nuts while the top block uses studs and wing nuts. I've transported the locmomotive several thousand miles in the car and have had no problems. The carrier has no problem with my 30+ pound live steam locomotive. I tote the tender in a padded, plastic tool box.





 

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Guys

There is also the Martin TrakrTote. We make them in sizes up to 5 feet long for both track power locos and onboard battery or live steam. Check the MLS Advertisers listing 

I already have one for my K-27.

Earl Martin

Home of the Martin TrakrTote and Martin Track Sweeper Car
 

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"Check the MLS Advertisers listing." Where is this list? I don't see a listing in Shopping or any of the other drop downs on the top of the page.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Josef, I used my table saw and fence. I layed the side panel on the saw table with the blade down and then raised the blade making sure I didn't cut too far. I had to finish cutting the corners by hand. The doors were made from separate pieces and carefully cut to fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes, I think you can see it in some of the photos at the top.
The case sits on the rail head and there has to be an opening for the flanges.
 
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