G Scale Model Train Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm new to this forum and in need of some help from all you pros out there. I've picked Aristo Craft as my choice for my new venture into outdoors railroading. So far I bought a UP Dash 9 for my Loco along with several box cars and Aristo Craft stainless track, but i'm a little confused on what size power pack and controller I will need. I'm going to start our with just a 50-60' oval and plan to grow from there. I have plenty of room for more but just going to start with this size. I want a power pack and controller that will grow with the layout and one that will have enough power to move the train slowly as well as quickly carring a nice size train safely. I do have a DCC HO scale layout in my garage but the G scale seems like a new world to me! So please if you can help me I would really appreciate it. Thank you, Doug
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
233 Posts
Sounds like you've started out right! I also plan to begin construction this spring with a large oval sized layout. I started this winter building the storage area in my garage first. That extends through two rooms and will lead outside the back of the garage. Stay within your budget. I turned on to G scale about 9 years ago but I unfortunately have had one too many starts and stops with G scale. Now starting (again) and will stay within a budget I can afford. G scale is not all that confusing once you get around it a bit. I only have Aristocraft products right now (1:29). USAT will be added as the budget allows but the layout will be 1:29 only. You indicated you are going DC power. There are two other options as well DCC and battery r/c. Right now my indoor tracks are DC for convenience, testing, etc but I will eventually convert all the battery R/c using Li-On battery power, QSI sound and G Wire for Air Wire wireless control. WELCOME
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
187 Posts
If the budget will afford it I would go with a Bridgewerks Maginum 200R 505 at ridge road station.
It is a bit pricey but will give you ample power and operation of a second track. I used them since they came out and accept for the first one have been great power for me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,716 Posts
I like Aristo's trackside TE. Later, when you decide to go battery, you can put the receiver onboard.
 

·
Super Modulator
Joined
·
20,781 Posts
Unless you want to go battery power, then a good fixed power supply is a safe investment. You can always add a controller. As good as the bridgewerks are, I would not recommend starting with them unless you know you will stay with DC power, not a R/C system.

You pay extra for certain features in the Bridgewerks (and quality) that you may not use on other systems. I would recommend a 10 amp supply like the Aristo Elite or a plain vanilla switching supply like I use for $85. Then add a controller like the Aristo. If you change later, you keep the power supply. The MRC 10 amp unit is also very good, it's the one with the big lever. Do not get anything less from MRC, the power ratings are misleading.

Welcome to the hobby.

Regards, Greg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,623 Posts
For the money and ease I'd recommend going with the Ultima power supply using the TE system. Most folks have stared out with this system and are very happy with it. Price is right. You can always up grade later on if you choose with out a big expense. Just set your priority as to what you will be operating in the long term. Later RJD
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
(tiptoes in and hopes it is ok to say 'track power') Doug, I personally went with the Bridgewerks Magnum 25 TDR controller and am happy with it, but just starting out you won't need anything that powerful. I have heard alot of good things about MRCs 10 Amp and Greg won't steer you wrong, he has been a big help to me.

-Will
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,731 Posts
Posted By Greg Elmassian on 01/17/2009 4:12 PM
That is exactly the 10 amp MRC I recommended. I use it whenever I run straight DC locos.

Regards, Greg


Greg,
you run straight DC,, YA RITE next you'll be tellin me you run batteries!!!!! he he he HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA




 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,936 Posts
Aristo Ultima is a 10 amp unregulated supply and the output lowers when the load increases.

Aristo Elite is a 22.5 volt 13 amp regulated supply that is very stable. It doeshave a control switch for 13 volts at 20 amps for smaller scales.

Aristo Everest is a 24 volt 15 amp supply that is also regulated and the newest aristo power supply entry for them in the garden scale market.

The cost difference between the Ultima and Elite is small enough that I would only pick the Elite and never the Ultima.

The Elite and Everest will also not lower the output voltages in case of a brownout (5 percent voltage cutback by the power company).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,535 Posts
Posted By Nicholas Savatgy on 01/18/2009 8:07 AM
If your going to buy a aristo pack, buy the elite and not the everest, trust me on this!!!!


Would you care to elaborate as to why a prospective customer should buy the Elite and not the Everest power supply?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,731 Posts
The elite seems to be one of aristos better power supplys, ive had one as a back up for 3 years and it hasnt failed yet. can be ajusted to 24 volts also puts out 13 amps whitch is prity good. the everlast on the other hand
2 of my freinds bought these and have had nothing but problems with them, shorting out also sending eratic voltage to the track. they have sent them back for repair they came back working but one is now doing the same thing again...so i dont reccommend these myself. as this is one of aristos newer items i think they will probably have to tinker with it to get it reliable my opionion of course.. [ now if you wanted to use it for a battery charger Probably be good for that] HA HA HA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,731 Posts
Posted By Nicholas Savatgy on 01/17/2009 9:26 PM
Posted By Greg Elmassian on 01/17/2009 4:12 PM
That is exactly the 10 amp MRC I recommended. I use it whenever I run straight DC locos.

Regards, Greg


Greg,
you run straight DC,, YA RITE next you'll be tellin me you run batteries!!!!! he he he HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA








Come on Greg this was funny... he he he
 

·
Super Modulator
Joined
·
20,781 Posts
Well, I do have a few locos that are not converted to DCC, and I also test QSI locos and DCC locos on DC. Also, visitors can run DC if they want.

And yes, I will get a battery setup, although it will probably be one that will interface to a DCC sound board. I'm tempted to get an AirWire, just to have a better handle on all the questions on programming AirWire users run into, but we will see.

I have a lot of other battery-powered equipment, from other hobbies, and have a lot of experience in rechargeable batteries, from personal hobbies, and from designing consumer products with them. I even have the first cell phone with a lithium polymer battery in it, an Ericsson.. we did some work for them.

And just for laughs, you KNOW I have a TE setup in my garage with the "SSS" unit.... (Secret Savatgy System) running a QSI....

So I go both ways... of course most people think that of all Kalifornians...

Greg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,731 Posts
So I go both ways... of course most people think that of all Kalifornians...

HE HE HE
....ITS ACUALLY A THREE WAY ..... SSSSSSSSSHHHHHHHHHHH ON THE .... SSS ...Project its very..very very secret SSSSSHHHHH I only lend my name to the best projects out there......... HA HA HA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
811 Posts
The first thing to do is go simple and cheap (if possible) until you decided what you really want to do. If you find that track power works for you out of doors, as it does for many, then you have the DCC experience to go that route too. If track power is problem for you, as it is for many others, then start looking at battery/RC options. The Airwire or QSI/Gwire things are really the DCC protocol but transmitted over radio.

- gws
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top