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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just ordered an aster mikado and am wondering from those who did the kit if there are any steps that I should be aware of as being particularly tricky and any tips. IE when I did my ruby years ago had some issues with the copper piping bending correctly.

Excited for this build.
 

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I assume you ordered the new version (not the one I showed recently Run of ASTER Southern Railway Mikado ). I do not know this new version but if it is similar to the old version it should not give much problems; I do not remember any difficulties. General experience from me: I normally take quite some time to build an ASTER kit and do not hurry at all.
Regards
Fred
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I assume you ordered the new version (not the one I showed recently Run of ASTER Southern Railway Mikado ). I do not know this new version but if it is similar to the old version it should not give much problems; I do not remember any difficulties. General experience from me: I normally take quite some time to build an ASTER kit and do not hurry at all.
Regards
Fred
Any annealing required to run copper or was everything already in the correct shape I guess is my biggest question. Any special tools needed that may not be part of a standard home tool kit?
 

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After having built HO kits for40 years, when I built my first aster kit I was amazed at the ease with which it ould be assembled. nearly no adjusting, all parts pre painted and stove enameled much easier really especilaly since the instructions are usually very clear.
 

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Chris,
Well, I have one of the 'original' Aster Mikados from many years ago, so I cannot comment on the new Accucraft version.
However, I was a little disappointed with the quality of the Accucraft/Aster 9F kit bought from California that I built.
Certainly mainly okay, but I did have a couple of mismatched pieces that needed work to get a good fit.
One was that I had two different length steam connection pipes, and when I asked Accucraft for assistance, they said "nothing to do with us - contact Aster in Japan".
A little annealing and bending got them to be more similar but I ended up having to twist the entire superheating tube system to one side.
Another was one of the copper pipes for the axle pump that was formed in the wrong direction. So some annealing and gentle twisting made it usable.
I think that I found a couple of holes that were not tapped at all and needed me to tap them. You may need to get some metric taps to clean out some painted holes as well.
Since I was familiar with building Aster kits back from 1975 when I bought a Schools, I had no real issues as know how it all is supposed to work, so hopefully with your Mikado, you will have no issues and the instructions will be easy to understand.
All the best with the build,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
 

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An interesting find on the Aster produced video of the Light Mike of 2018. According to the video, which is still available, it needs to be pushed to start, and the caption at the bottom states why. The next clearly shows the tech pushing it. Have others come across this?? or has Aster/Accucraft addressed this? I know it is common to 'rock' fwd and rev to clear the cylinders, didn't seem to be the case here.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
An interesting find on the Aster produced video of the Light Mike of 2018. According to the video, which is still available, it needs to be pushed to start, and the caption at the bottom states why. The next clearly shows the tech pushing it. Have others come across this?? or has Aster/Accucraft addressed this? I know it is common to 'rock' fwd and rev to clear the cylinders, didn't seem to be the case here. View attachment 63889 View attachment 63890
That is lame. Even my ruby selfstarts and that is as cheap as you can go
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So the instructions call for acrylic silicone caulk. Which is kinda confusing. Silicon caulk is not acrylic based. They make reference to keeping a wet rag to clean it up which regular caulk would not work with as it is oil based however it would work with acrylic based caulk which has a lower temp rating and is not silicone based.
So what exactly are they asking for?
 

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Acrilyic caulk that is an alternative to the silicon-based caulk.... have seen this in other countries, where the description of a product is not the way we would do it.

We would say "acrylic based caulking"

They are effectively saying "acrylic based caulk, that is like the silicon based caulk, but not with silicon"

(worked for Japanese company for a number of years).

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Turns out it came with a tube of caulk. Also besides some paint being in a few threaded holes and a typo in the instructions calling for the use of the wrong screw ( diagram shows one thing written instructions show another) all is going pretty smooth. Worked on it for 6 hours today and only got to assembly 2.
 
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