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Is this a good table saw?

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Biblegrove RR

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ready to purchase my 1st table saw and I think I found a good deal. This Dewalt model #DW744X is on sale at $449 and on the first Thursday of every month...hehe Seniors and women get additional 10% off! Just gotta figure out how to actually get the wife ok with me buying it, then doing it for me
( I fear it may cost me lots more before it's over!
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) Features:
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Exclusive, telescoping fence delivers 24-1/2" rip capacity without sacrificing portability
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Rack and Pinion fence rails make fence adjustments fast, smooth and accurate
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Telescoping rails retract within the saw top for easy portability
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Features a 15.0 Amp high-torque motor with the power to cut pressure-treated lumber and hardwoods
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Electronic feedback maintains blade speed during difficult applications
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Soft start allows blade to smoothly come up to speed
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Features a heavy-duty internal motor mechanism which stabilizes the arbor, keeping vibration to a minimum
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2" Dust Collection Port easily connects to a vacuum for efficient dust extraction
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3-1/8" depth of cut at 90° and 2-1/4" at 45°
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26-1/2" X 19-1/4" table surface provides superior material support


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IS this a good deal?
 
#3 ·
It the one I have been using for the past 8 years or so. Its been a reliable workhorse for all types of work. It took a bit of time initially to set up the fence but I have not had to make any adjustments since.

-Brian
 
#5 ·
If you do not need the saw to be portable and have the space, I would recommend a used "contractors saw, or used cabinet saw".

Some of the "bench top saws" have proprietary accessories, (you must buy their accessories to fit). Jigs and fixtures for convenient functionality must be theirs and are often expensive to buy, unlike their base unit.

Some are direct drive, like a drill. They'll lack power and can easily overload and burn out. A belt drive with a 1.5 to 5 HP motor, and a good quality sharp saw blade, will hardly break a sweat cutting the toughest hardwood and some will even have the connections to wire in at 220 VAC. (I will have my best brand new blades [and other new cutting tools] sharpened professionally out of the box.)


It all depends on how you plan to use the saw. Most "homeowner saws" are plenty durable with enough functionality for the occasional user. If you plan to build or remodel a house, I would suggest a used, cast iron bed, stationary table saw.
 
#7 ·
John - I have the DeWalt saw you're considering and I'm 100% happy with it. I had an old inexpensive Skil 10" table saw which served me for years, but it was impossible to do really good work with it, and keeping the fence parallel to the blade was impossible. I replaced it with the DeWalt. I looked at quite a few saws before making my decision, and the rack and pinion fence was a big plus in the DeWalt's favor.

I don't use it heavily - three or four times a year - but it does a great job when I do need it. I replaced the supplied contractor's blade with a good quality finishing blade and the results were great. Very smooth cuts with no edge splintering and virtually no finish sanding required. The only real add-ons I've bought are the outfeed and side supports and a dado set. Haven't needed anything else.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
thank you guys... I will only use it frequently and NOT be building any houses. Mainly for trestle bents! Oh and the new tiki bar I would love to have this summer. I did not way the option of being able to move this thing around out in the yard (job site). After considering this I want it even more. Now what type thin blade do I need?
 
#10 ·
Speaking of Table Saws. How many of you have seen, used or have, a table saw with a GRANITE TOP. Yea A marble table top on the saw. I saw one for the first time at Home Depot.

The slot for the squar was chiped and it was on sale.
 
#13 ·
For cutting cedar I use a thin kerf, carbide tipped, 60 tooth blade I got at HarborFreight for $10 years ago. Still works great.
I have my saw on a homemade wood stand (from 2x4s) with a wheel kit and dust bag from HF. Cutting cedar can be dusty so its good to do it outdoors or hooked up to a shop vac. Don't forget eye protection and a dust mask.

- Brian
 
#14 ·
Not familiar with that saw but couple of things to think about when buying any tablesaw.

1) Is the throat-plate (the thing the saw-blade comes up through) a stamped piece of steel? Usually stamped steel throat-plates are difficult if not impossible, to replace with a zero-clearance throat. Zero-clearance is very handy to have when cutting small, thin pieces.


2) How much table is in front of the blade? some of the table-top saws have almost no space in front of the blade which makes getting a cut started difficult

My experience with DeWalt, like others on this list, have been stellar. No reason to believe otherwise with the table-saw.

Hope that helps some.

Bill
 
#15 ·
I have one that I got 5 years ago and have used it to cut a multitude of different sized materials from 1x and 2x, 4x4s, 4x8 beams to 4x16 glulams, and various sized sheet goods for construction of an apartment in my barn, a pergola in the back yard and 1000's of various sized ripped pieces as small as 3/8x3/8 for trestle stringers and braces. You need to tune it to square the blade, fence and level the insert, and get a good blade but that's all. Make sure you have a good outfeed table and/or side table if cutting long stock or sheet goods to help keep the cut square and clean. It's only drawback is power when cutting very large stock like 4x6 or 8 beams, but how often do you do that?? (8 cuts in 5 years for me!
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)

I replaced the folding stand with a roll around box stand. I built the stand to the same height as my make up/assembly table so I can use the assembly table as an out feed table. The stand also allows me to control and capture the sawdust generated a little easier.

Good luck with the saw I think you'll be satified.
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Mark
 
#16 ·
Posted By wildbill001 on 05/24/2009 11:30 AM
Not familiar with that saw but couple of things to think about when buying any tablesaw.

1) Is the throat-plate (the thing the saw-blade comes up through) a stamped piece of steel? Usually stamped steel throat-plates are difficult if not impossible, to replace with a zero-clearance throat. Zero-clearance is very handy to have when cutting small, thin pieces.

The throat plate pops out easily to replace with a dado or other plate. It also has screws to adjust its height to be level with the table. I made my own zero clearance plate from an old plastic cutting board my wife was tossing.


2) How much table is in front of the blade? some of the table-top saws have almost no space in front of the blade which makes getting a cut started difficult

The blade is in the middle of the table so there is plenty of space to you wood lined up before cutting.


-Brian
 
#17 ·
I've never used one of these, but I've own a couple of motorized table saws that were other brands. I've mainly done carpentry with them though a little cabinet work with one. It's hard to beat a cast iron top
for accuracy. My complaint with motorized saws is there seemed to be a slight slop or run out (side to side movement in the blade) that i have not seen with a belt driven saw.
 
#18 ·
I don't have a DeWalt saw, but every other tool I have from them is very high quality. I bet the table saw is first rate. Use a DeWalt 8 1/4" thin kerf, 40 tooth, carbide tipped construction blade in that baby and you will get glass smooth glue lines every time.

Get rid of the stock throat plate as others mention and make your own zero clearance plates.

Get rid of the stock table leg thing too and make a cabinet like this. Use nice, heavy duty, lockable casters to move it around. Router table part is nice, but optional:



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You will be in business.
 
#19 ·
I swear by mine. I originally had a Sears Craftsman and burned it up. I like the DeWalt SO MUCH, I bought a second one. I will keep the dado blades in one and rip in the other. Use zero clearance plastic inserts and real good blades. Having cut miles of trestle parts and board and batten siding and shingles, I can't say enough about it. B&D is a home town (Towson) company that supported the Maryland & Pennsylvania RR. Still in their original building, long after the RR died.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
thank you to everyone! I think this is the saw for me, but... there were many different blades suggested. Yes, I will be using 12' cedar boards that come in many different sizes. What is the square size of a scale bent?
 
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