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I am new to Large Scale.  I have a Bachmann Durango & Siverton Starter Set I am going to run in the basement for now. I would like to install RCS and battery, but I am confused.

They talk about mode/stage 1,2 & 3, but I am not sure what they mean by the different levels. 

Also in addition to the transmitter and receiver there seems to be a number of other componts depending on what your are trying to do. 

What do I really need to get it going.?
 

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Sound?
The "mode" is the operating program.
They come in Mode 1.
I use Mode 2.

Batteries?
I use two 7.2v Nicad packs siliconed under the shell.
Installation kit, Tony has big ones, I use a smaller version with switch, polyswitch, jack, wiring and instructions.

You should use a couple of RF chokes.
Cheap.

9V TX battery.

Other than power, a way to turn it on and off, plus charge, you're set.
You should have Transmitter, receiver, throttle, about 4 capacitors (you'll need 2), and the harness from throttle to receiver, all in the box.

TOC
 
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here is what my "Annie" tender looked like before I buttoned her up.....RCS Elite, Sierra Sound, 14.4v....

don't let it frighten you!  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/shocked.gifthe install was easier than expected!

cale

for more detailed info, I'd call that Dinosaur above!!!

 

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Earlier units had a "mode 3" or "automatic" function which nobody used, so he removed it.
One is basic, two is what I use, has two operating programs in it.
You set it by following the directions, using the on-board DIP switches and the power switch.
 

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Posted By Mickeyls on 02/20/2008 3:39 PM
What is the difference between mode 1 & mode 2 ??   Is there also a mode 3???


Hi Mickey.

That is a valid question.

The EL-102 operating program is used with both BASIC and ELITE systems.

If you read this www.rcs-rc.com/on_board_battery/rcs/Inst_2008_BASIC_TX_24.pdf  on page # 3 is a description of exactly what the three different modes do.
Basically they allow three different ways of operating a loco.
Also see page # 8 for an explanation of the TX handpiece symbols.
 

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I made a styrene platform to hold my battery packs.
 

 
It fits over the speaker and around the original sound card.
 

 
The battery packs were attached with cable ties.
 

 
The receiver was mounted on the rear of the platform. A bracket for the Black Kat antenna was hot glued to the top of the battery holders.
 

 
Everything is attached to the frame except the wires for the rear light. They get fastened to the terminal block just before the shell is installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Paul, it looks like you used standard C cells in a battery holder and not a made up, shrink wrap pack.   Is that true, and if so, how is it working??
 

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Those look like AA to me, not C.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Paul, another question.  You mentioned you left the original sound card.   Is it tied to the R/C unit, or does it use the same switch as before???
 

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Mickey

OVGRS members have for many years used battery holders with double A cells. These have worked fine and we have had no problems. However, we take care to not get them wet since corrosion of the holder can cause problems. Most of us would agree that a made up shrinkwrapped pack is the ideal but the normal batteries available to us are untabbed so ..

You may want to look at the OVGRS website www.ovgrs.org where Paul (mainly) has written up many of the battery RC installs that have been done in the club. Paul has worked mainly with Aristo which is the RC stuff in greatest use but we also have a solid showing of RCS. Both RC brands give excellent service when installed properly - RCS is more fully featured and more ergonomic in my opinion while Aristo TE's are a bit less expensive when no sound is installed. The Aristo mobile units have caused some grief though Paul has now worked the bugs out of the installs of those as well.

Regards ... Doug
 

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Posted By Mickeyls on 02/22/2008 7:12 AM
Paul, another question.  You mentioned you left the original sound card.   Is it tied to the R/C unit, or does it use the same switch as before???

The battery packs are made up of 8 NiMH AA cells in a battery holder for 9.6 volts. When our club members first began using them for power cars and locomotives, sealed packs were expensive and not readily available. Two packs will produce 19.2 volts which is great for the receivers we use, and will run an Annie for hours and hours.
 

 
Some feel these packs are unsafe because of the spring terminals, but we have never had a problem with them during years of running. Although I have never had a cell fail, replacement would be simple and inexpensive. The Radio Shack chargers we use safely charge a pack in 8 hours without overheating the cells.
 

 
Using the proper charger prevents accidents and prolongs battery life.
 
The factory sound card (chuff only) is connected to the locomotive with an MU plug that comes with the tender. A 9 volt battery under the water hatch provides the power. The sound card is completely independent of the receiver and its battery packs, and operates with the factory switch as before.
 

 
The Bachmann white MU plugs are the rear light and sound. In my power conversion the rear light was connected directly to the receiver’s lighting circuit, and the MU plug for the light was connected to the receiver’s motor outputs. The shorter black plugs are for on-board battery charging.
 
If you would like to see how I changed my Annie to on-board, battery power and radio control, just click on the following link.
ovgrs.editme.com/Annie
 
Although this was my standard set-up for on-board battery power and radio control at the time, 7.2 volt battery packs and an RCS radio receiver could also have be used. The members of our club that have used them in their Annies are quite happy with their performance and radio range.
 
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