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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the planning stages for an indoor G scale ceiling layout of about 100'. Can I get away with using the standard Bachmann Steel track and soldering the joints or would brass be a better choice? ( I know I would need about 100 watt iron & flux)

Also,
Im trying to choose a power supply. I would think I would need several amps. I plan on running a Accucraft "Fort Wilderness" locomotive pulling 4 cars at the most.

Any advise would be appreciated.

-don
 

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Don,

The BM steel track is so flimsy, and its joints so electrically flaky, I'd stay away from it... and unless I'm unaware of some special process, I don't think you can solder to it. I'd recommend the brass, if you can swing it. I'd hate to see you buying toy train track for an Accucraft!

If you want to get out of rail cleaning, you might consider the Train Li nickle-plated (brass) track. Cheaper than SS. But there's also aluminum, that might be cheapest, not sure. But any of those should reduce your "ladder time," ha ha!

Keep us posted (with pics!) on your progress,
Cliff
 

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I used AML aluminum flex track in 6 ft sections. To get good electrical connectivity I drilled a hole in the rail web and tapped it for an allen head machine screw. I coated the joint with one of the aluminum wire oxidation pastes and secured the rail joiner to the rail with the screw. It's only been up about 2 years in a basement room but so far has worked fine.
 

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I see Bachmann hollow track selling at pretty much the price of used LGB track.
I place used LGB track in the dishwasher with my dishes and the plastic cleans up nicely.
Hollow track is to easy to damage and the ties do not have UV protection.
And the Bachmann will rust even indoors in time.
 

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I have read that someone could use the Crest Revolution receiver board and a generic PS connected to the track to run trains. That way you have wireless control and plenty of power. On the other hand a 1 amp LGB starter set PS might do the job also, not sure how much power the Fort Wilderness needs or if you are pulling cars with lights.
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I bought some AML aluminum track and a used Bachmann street car to test/play with. I also bought a bench power supply from MPJA variable 18vdc @3 amps. I tried this rig out on the kitchen floor, the streetcar moved about 1/4 inch and stopped, then we smelled the electrical smell. The seller claimed the car worked but...

Is the Bachmann stuff that flakey? or could there be a issue with the power supply. All I need is good clean DC power right??

Now I gotta find a replacement motor or something else to test with. I'm keeping the Accucraft in the closet for the big reveal once everything is done.

Any advise welcome.
 

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I bought some AML aluminum track and a used Bachmann street car to test/play with. I also bought a bench power supply from MPJA variable 18vdc @3 amps. I tried this rig out on the kitchen floor, the streetcar moved about 1/4 inch and stopped, then we smelled the electrical smell. The seller claimed the car worked but...

Is the Bachmann stuff that flakey? or could there be a issue with the power supply. All I need is good clean DC power right??

Now I gotta find a replacement motor or something else to test with. I'm keeping the Accucraft in the closet for the big reveal once everything is done.

Any advise welcome.
Welcome to the wonderful world of large scale :eek:

Re track, yes, it is, its almost as expensive as brass, has worse conductivity issues due to the crappy joiners, rusts in even slight moisture and if stepped on... instant crush. I would whole-heartedtly recommend any track, even solid plastic New Bright track, over Bmann's junk tin track.

RE Trolley, sigh... you're not the first to suffer 'Bachmanitis" The trolley is notorious for failing motors, NWSL sold a decent replacement motor, they still should.

NWSL = North West Short Lines http://www.nwsl.com/

Near the bottom of the page
http://www.nwsl.com/uploads/chap2_web_02-15.pdf
 

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I bought some AML aluminum track and a used Bachmann street car to test/play with. I also bought a bench power supply from MPJA variable 18vdc @3 amps. I tried this rig out on the kitchen floor, the streetcar moved about 1/4 inch and stopped, then we smelled the electrical smell. The seller claimed the car worked but...

Is the Bachmann stuff that flakey? or could there be a issue with the power supply. All I need is good clean DC power right??

Now I gotta find a replacement motor or something else to test with. I'm keeping the Accucraft in the closet for the big reveal once everything is done.

Any advise welcome.
You haven't said which Bachmann trolley you have.......I assume it's not the new Peter Witt streetcars that cost around $200. But it is probably the open trolley called "United Traction Co." OR could be the "closed" trolley. I bought the open trolley about 30 years ago. Paid about $90 new at that time. It ran for about five minutes (new out of the box) and then crapped out. The gear noise was very loud, even outdoors. That thing was junk! Still is. It LOOKS nice as a model, but terrible as a runner. I gave mine away. I wasn't going to put ANY more money into that thing. Good luck with yours if we are talking about the same piece.:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Welcome to the wonderful world of large scale :eek:

Re track, yes, it is, its almost as expensive as brass, has worse conductivity issues due to the crappy joiners, rusts in even slight moisture and if stepped on... instant crush. I would whole-heartedtly recommend any track, even solid plastic New Bright track, over Bmann's junk tin track.

RE Trolley, sigh... you're not the first to suffer 'Bachmanitis" The trolley is notorious for failing motors, NWSL sold a decent replacement motor, they still should.

NWSL = North West Short Lines http://www.nwsl.com/

Near the bottom of the page
http://www.nwsl.com/uploads/chap2_web_02-15.pdf
Awesome, they even have instructions for replacement on that exact model Trolley. That's what I was looking for. Will probably order soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You haven't said which Bachmann trolley you have.......I assume it's not the new Peter Witt streetcars that cost around $200. But it is probably the open trolley called "United Traction Co." OR could be the "closed" trolley. I bought the open trolley about 30 years ago. Paid about $90 new at that time. It ran for about five minutes (new out of the box) and then crapped out. The gear noise was very loud, even outdoors. That thing was junk! Still is. It LOOKS nice as a model, but terrible as a runner. I gave mine away. I wasn't going to put ANY more money into that thing. Good luck with yours if we are talking about the same piece.:rolleyes:
Its the "Season's greetings" street car. 93941

Again, just something for testing whilst the track is under construction.

Thanks!
 

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I;'ve already invested in AML aluminum track with 4' diameter.

Thanks!
Nothing wrong with 4' dia, especially if you are planning a trolley layout. But the Bachmann trolleys do have a reputation, if you are planning a large traction layout then its worth investing in the better NWSL motor blocks, its just that the NWSLs are pretty pricey but they are very reliable.

Curious, will this be a round the room ceiling layout or a more detailed traditional type layout? helps determine how to answer questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nothing wrong with 4' dia, especially if you are planning a trolley layout. But the Bachmann trolleys do have a reputation, if you are planning a large traction layout then its worth investing in the better NWSL motor blocks, its just that the NWSLs are pretty pricey but they are very reliable.

Curious, will this be a round the room ceiling layout or a more detailed traditional type layout? helps determine how to answer questions.
This will be a 'round the ceiling/dining room' layout with a switch to go into 5 other rooms and another switch to return to dining room. I want to be able to confine it to the dining room, but also activate the switches and have it run around the entire downstairs . Many penetrations into walls in between studs. (it's ok, I built my house 20 years ago, I think I can do this :) ) I already have each stud marked and am beginning to decide what type of brackets (I will probably make them out of spruce and paint and/or use of large crown moulding) etc..

Thanks for everyone's help so far. This is going to take a while.
 

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I would then DEFINITELY recommend anything other than Bmann's tin track.

Dan's recommendation for USA blocks instead of the NWSL blocks will save you a few bucks
 
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