Im ready to buy track

Posted By Engineercub on 12/30/2008 4:08 PM
What tool works the best for cutting through Stainless? Anyone have experience with multiple methods?

-Will




Anything with a metal cutting disc will work well. They are all pretty much the same fiberglass disc impregnated with abrasives. Dremel works okay but the small size of the disc makes it more difficult to get a straight cut. I like to cut in place on the ground while laying track just marking it by eye and hitting it with the 4 inch metal disc on the angle grinder because I like to work fast. A metal disc in a chop saw is probably the best for a straight cut but I'm too lazy to mark the track then carry it over to the saw and back.
A hack saw will work fine if you got more time than money .

-Brian

Posted By Dan Pierce on 12/31/2008 5:38 AM
I use the mini chop saw from Harbor freight.
Square cuts the first time.

2 years and still on the original blade.

I cut code 332 brass rail, and aluminum pipes plus wood for the RR and it has the footprint of a slice of bread.


Hey Dan. I just went to the HF website. It shows two mini chop saws. Which one do you have The blue one or Orange one.

I am very interested in them

Posted By Jerry Barnes on 12/31/2008 11:47 AM
If you are getting the Llagas track, buy it with the ties already on, they are a PAIN to get on the rails.


Sorry, Jerry, I'd have to disagree!

The cost differential between paying them to assemble the track ADDED to the cost of shipping "TRACK", versus shipping a box of "Ties" (in a small box) and a tube of "Rail" (in a small diameter tube... yes the long tube is extra expense for shipping but is cheaper than the just-as-long-box to ship assembled track), is substantial.

If you create a fixture to hold the rail upside down the correct distance apart and spend a few seconds with a file to bevel the ends of the rails and put a little wax on the rails, they slide on easily. The Tie Tool also helps pushing the sets of 4 ties on by holding them parallel and uniformly spaced.

Also, I had all the same uniform curves on my line so I pre-bent the rails in a single-rail bender. I don't think the dual-rail "Track" bender was invented yet back then so I would have had to disassemble the track down to individual rails anyway to bend them, thus negating the work done by the vendor assembling the track and wasting that payment and the extra cost of mailing "Track" instead of "Ties" and "Rail" separately.

It took me longer to make an 8.5 ft radius compass (adjustable to 8-ft 4-inches and 8-ft 5.75-inches) to hold a Dremel router to cut two 1/8 inch wide slots in a 1"x12"x8' board and adjust the rail bender to the correct setting, than it did to bend the rails, bevel the ends (with the file on my Swiss Army knife) spray Armour All on a rag to wipe the rails and assemble the curved sections (two 17-ft diameter loop backs, or 720-degrees of curved track).

I have used Llagas Creek track for all the trackwork on the Northland. It is not as big as some railroads but so far I have almost 800 feet of track.

Like Jerry, I found the assembly of the rail to ties a pita even though I had a fixture, used armour all and beveled the ends ot the rail. Also shipping to Canada is not inexpensive either way ... so in the end, I paid the extra (about 50 cents a foot) and had the vast majority assembled for me by Llagas Creek.

I use code 215 aluminum rail .... i build my benchwork for elevated track first and then lay all my curves freehand spiking the track down. The little bit extra I paid for track to start with has been easily recovered in time saved and avoiding the scost and hassle of a railbender. The biggest place to save is on switches. I bought a number of Llagas Creek kits but now buy the frogs only and lay my own. It is a bit time consuming (say 3 hours per switch custom built for its location) but for me is also a labour of love. I sense the folks who handlay all their track feel the same way even though they justify it with the cost advantage.

Regards ... Doug