[Plant man]

Ok guys lets see ,
Austin and I have a good start on our design and lay out .
My question is should we look at stainless steel track and use 5' pieces .
And then buy a Train-Li bender.

What do i need to cut the track with if I need to cut it.

Thanks for your thoughts... Scott & Austin

 

[ThinkerT]

Watch out for the 5 foot pieces. Word is that while the cost per foot might be slightly lower than otherwise, the shipping bill eats up those savings and then some.

Track or battery power?

As to cutting it...I've used a plain old ordinary hacksaw in the past.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

I don't like manual saws, I use a dremel with the new quick release metal cutting blades. Stainless is pretty tough, and when I use a hand saw, it really torques the rail back and forth, and often pulls it out of the "spikes".

These new blades are less prone to breakage and much larger in diameter than the 1" wheels you have seen before.

Regards, Greg

 

[altterrain]

Ridge Road still has some of the 4.5' SS track (it has been discontinued) - http://www.ridgeroadstation.com/istar.asp?a=3&manufacturer=255&dept=trains&class=G&subclass=&icon1=13

I found a small hack saw blade the easiest way to cut the tie webbing.


You'll also need a bunch of Split Jaw (or Hillman plated or Aristo) rail clamps.


I use a 4 inch metal cutting disk on an angle grinder. Zips right though the SS. You'll just need a small file to clean up the bottom edge.

-Brian

 

[Jerry Barnes]

I would use the longest pieces I could. I recommend code 250 track also. Trains look a LOT better on it. SVRR has code 250 SS.

 

[up9018]

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 12/28/2008 8:40 PM
I don't like manual saws, I use a dremel with the new quick release metal cutting blades. Stainless is pretty tough, and when I use a hand saw, it really torques the rail back and forth, and often pulls it out of the "spikes".

These new blades are less prone to breakage and much larger in diameter than the 1" wheels you have seen before.

Regards, Greg


I have not seen these, what is the quick release part. I would love to get rid of the old cut-off wheels that break half way thru and throws out a chuck that wacks you. BTW Greg, have you tried using one of the battery powered Dremels? I was considering it when I laid my track, but didn't know how well the battery would hold up.

 

[up9018]

Posted By Plant man on 12/28/2008 7:23 PM
Ok guys lets see ,
Austin and I have a good start on our design and lay out .
My question is should we look at stainless steel track and use 5' pieces .
And then buy a Train-Li bender.

What do i need to cut the track with if I need to cut it.

Thanks for your thoughts... Scott & Austin



I'm going with Battery Power and plan on using Llagas Creek Aluminum Code 250 track. It's lower cost and the shipping weight would be down over brass or stainless.

 

[altterrain]

Posted By up9018 on 12/29/2008 5:37 PM
Posted By Greg Elmassian on 12/28/2008 8:40 PM
I don't like manual saws, I use a dremel with the new quick release metal cutting blades. Stainless is pretty tough, and when I use a hand saw, it really torques the rail back and forth, and often pulls it out of the "spikes".

These new blades are less prone to breakage and much larger in diameter than the 1" wheels you have seen before.

Regards, Greg


I have not seen these, what is the quick release part. I would love to get rid of the old cut-off wheels that break half way thru and throws out a chuck that wacks you. BTW Greg, have you tried using one of the battery powered Dremels? I was considering it when I laid my track, but didn't know how well the battery would hold up.




Dremel EZ Lock -

I got a set a year ago. They are pretty sweet!


-Brian

 

[Guest]

be careful with Code 250 aluminum. It will not stand being stepped on. Otherwise, it is a good deal for battery power

 

[Plant man]

What about a track bender for S.S. any thought ? And is it a good Idea to bend my own track .

I have a dremal I need to get the quick snap on part.

Thanks Scott

 

[Guest]

for stainless you will need a bender. The Train-Li one seems to get the best reviews

 

[altterrain]

The Train Li does a great job! Its very easy to use.

-Brian

 

[John J]

This is also availabe at ACE hardware. I use these more than anything. The mandril will fit a dremel tool. it is not the same mandril as the dremel ones. Some times you have have to get a extra collet depending how your dremel is set up. But these are well worth the effort.

If you have to cut at a angle you can use these as a grinder to squar up the ends. You can also use them to remove burs.

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/johnj/cutoff1.JPG

 

[chaingun]

I use a dremel with the blades John J posted, also a full size (14 inch) chop saw and this handy & inexpensive little unit from Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42307
Best,Ted

 

[blueregal]

I just mark em and cut em on my table saw has a fine tooth blade good for cutting cedar too!!! Works great no muss no fuss and quick. The Regal

 

[altterrain]

Posted By blueregal on 12/30/2008 8:23 AM
I just mark em and cut em on my table saw has a fine tooth blade good for cutting cedar too!!! Works great no muss no fuss and quick. The Regal

You're cutting stainless steel on your table saw?!?

-Brian

 

[jbwilcox]

I cut my track with my Craftsman Chop Saw.

There are some sparks but it works great.

John

 

[aceinspp]

I use a good old hack saw. Cuts fast on SS rail. Trick is to have a big enough vise to hold both rails while cutting. Now you would think this guy I know would invest in a good vise. He has all the other good tools

right Greg. Later RJD

 

[McGinty26]

I also use a Craftsman chop saw with carbide tip blade. I use brass track, so the cutting is a bit easier than stainless steel. I'm sure there is a replacement blade available fro SS. I take my time and it comes out like a factory cut.

Pat McCarty

 

[Engineercub]

What tool works the best for cutting through Stainless? Anyone have experience with multiple methods?

-Will