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I am going to purchase my first FA1 DIESEL and want to know what size curve it will work with

I currently have mostly 4 foot diameter curves but I want to go ahead and get into larger engines. I can expand my curves by inserting straight track pieces into them.
I use rail clamps and cut my track with my band saw to retrofit. I have 400 plus feet of laid track outside. I have it secured on 8 inch wide treated wood and dont
want to rebuild my 10 curves with 8 foot radius curves I will have to restructure
my layout.Unless any of you have a solution that you have used to prevent this? I understand a 5 foot radius curve works with most larger engines. I have been learning as I build and used 8 foot diameter curves on my third track layout but I would like to run them on my older layout without totally restructuring it.My thanks to anyone who has advice to give me and would also like to know what larger diesel engines are most reliable I am thinking about an FA1 OR A NW2 DIESEL FROM USA TRAINS but if you know a better engine let me know
 

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RE: I am going to purchase my first FA1 DIESEL and want to know what size curve it will work with

You can run an Aristo FA-1 on four foot diameter curves using hook and loop couplers. Five foot diameter is the minimum with the stock couplers.

-Brian
 

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RE: I am going to purchase my first FA1 DIESEL and want to know what size curve it will work with

A technical note--you're not "expanding" your curves by inserting straight pieces between each section. They're still the same radius, just with straight sections between them so to take up more space. From a practical standpoint, that's not really a recommended practice. Aesthetically it looks bad, and the constant straight-curve-straight-curve (especially with really tight curves) will actually put more lateral force on your wheels. This could cause more derailment problems than just running the tight curve without the straights.

Later,

K
 

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RE: I am going to purchase my first FA1 DIESEL and want to know what size curve it will work with

UNTRUE on the Stock Coupler remark...

I had all 4 foot curves for quite some time... I am indoor and my track is very level except for a grade and a bridge...

FAs run great with the stock Aristo couplers...

You can run RS3s by removing the centering spring and adding weight to the trainling car...

I ran UBOATS too... but they look ugly with the overhang...

I had several FAs, RS3s, 0-4-0s, Critters, and a UBOAT all Aristo all on 4 foot curves...

You can also run GP9s from USA and I think I ran the GP38 also...

The new GP40s from Aristo need mods to the coupler to get them to work on 4 footers...

watch the tail end swing on the larger engines when going by switches in curves... they can hit the switch mech...

I have since expanded my loops to 6.5' diameter on my outside loop and 5' on the inside loop... this makes for even more locos...

Philip
 

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RE: I am going to purchase my first FA1 DIESEL and want to know what size curve it will work with

I don't know where you live L&F.

But if you are in reasonable distance of Illinois you might like to get the Aristo-Craft FA1 at the Mid-West Show on 3rd./4th. October at Springfield IL.

If you are not familiar with the details just look at the Aristo-Craft Forum. under Mid West Show. The loco this year is an MKT FA-1. It is sharp and a good price - at the Show of course.
 

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RE: I am going to purchase my first FA1 DIESEL and want to know what size curve it will work with

Depends on if couplers are body mounted or truck mounted. I have truck mounted Kadees and my FA runs fine thru 4' curves, the RS-3 needs 5".
 

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RE: I am going to purchase my first FA1 DIESEL and want to know what size curve it will work with

FA-1 w/ standard hook and loops, runs fine on my R1's.
 

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RE: I am going to purchase my first FA1 DIESEL and want to know what size curve it will work with

FA1 with the standard Aristo Knuckles works on 4 footers...

Trust me... All I had was 4 foot diameter for years...

You can run the RS3 on 4 foot also... remove the centering spring and add weight to the lead car... I had a baggy of nuts and bolts in a box car... never had any problems... you can do the same with the Uboat...

USA trains have a slightly longer coupler shaft... so they have more swing... so the GP7/9 and the GP38 work... just watch the body swing around the couplers...

No need for ugly hook and loop...

Philip
 
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