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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was discussing the track for our railroad with my dad i we came to the conclusion that we need to have a 4% grade in one section its fairly long straight and is under the eves of the garage but i don't know how well my locomotives will handle the grade in don't plan on running trains with anymore then 8 cars at most my current locomotives are:
a Piko 0-6-0 saddle tank, an Aristocraft rogers 2-4-2, a USA trains 44 tonner, an LGB stainz, a New Bright 2-6-2, and im planning on aquiring some older bachmann 4-6-0s i also plan on converting everything to battery power
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Hi, from my experience it is best to keep grades at 2 to 3 percent max. Smaller locos with less weight and less wheels have a very hard time with anything over 2 percent. Adding weight to locos can help but you have to be careful not to over stress the drive system. Some of the gears can not handle the stress. Double heading seems to be the best answer to tackle steeper grades when they can not be avoided.
Hope that helps a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi, from my experience it is best to keep grades at 2 to 3 percent max. Smaller locos with less weight and less wheels have a very hard time with anything over 2 percent. Adding weight to locos can help but you have to be careful not to over stress the drive system. Some of the gears can not handle the stress. Double heading seems to be the best answer to tackle steeper grades when they can not be avoided.
Hope that helps a little.
i don't plan on running very many cars with my smaller locomotives and the grade wouldn't have any curves on it
 

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from all the locos, you showed or mentioned, i know only two.
elderly bachmann 4-6-0 and stainzes.
the one 4-6-0, i had, killed herself, when she should draw herself and the tender up a 6% grade. (gears not only split, but broken in pieces)
my stainzes (i got more than one) on my last layout - in tandem, or with a motorized LGB tender - did draw five feet of roling stock up 6% grades. (either five four-wheeled cars, or four cars on trucks, or combinations)
but...
the stainzes and the motorized tenders were weighted to a total of about five pound each.
(the older LGBs with their Buhler motors can cope with this type of abuse. other brands might be less forgiving)



but the idea of a single loco drawing eight cars at 4% sounds very ambitious to me.

on a former layout i had 5% grades. a single stainz (weighted to 5 pound) could draw 3 or 4 cars (4-wheeled) up that grade.

 

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I’ve got about 2’ of topography to deal with in my layout. What I had planned originally was to deal with a few inches of that by smoothing the grade out over a longer length than the elevation changes. So e.g., if the track needed to drop 4” over a 10’ section, engineer it to drop over 16’ of track instead of 10’ to keep the grade 2% or less. That approach might help you here.

The problem with my attempts at that was that the uphill sections have track laying on ballast on the ground or in a roadcut (lower sections are raised on a trestle), and my surveying/grading skills are of limited precision and the ballast tends to move around here and there with weather, kids, etc., so some sections end up steeper than I want. Depending in your layout design and how much engineering you want to do, you may also run into issues with unevenness and relaxation later on as well. My approach, after having raising the trestle by 2” to reduce the grade I need to deal with on the uphill sections, has been to build more tolerance into my plans to account for the roadbed evolving over time.
 

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Definitely add the LGB powered tender to the stainz, and add weight to both. Plus add the cable to share track power between the engine and tender!! You could get the USA trains docksider to pull cars also, a very heavy small engine.
 

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While in real world terms the RhB croco Ge 6/6 is way more powerful than the light duty Ge 2/4, matters prove the inverse on my layout. The #205 model brings more weight onto the two powered axels and does pull more than the less weighted axels of #415. I do run double headers as in reality happened decades ago.
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Also, wonders occur daily on my fantasy line (a never realized link from the Engadine to North Tyrol), the Landeck Graubünden Bahn in as much as meter-gauge models role on this line as well as so called Bosnian gauge (or 2 1/2ft) rolling stock. Thanks to LGB 'rubber scale'. And rule #8 :cool:
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
from all the locos, you showed or mentioned, i know only two.
elderly bachmann 4-6-0 and stainzes.
the one 4-6-0, i had, killed herself, when she should draw herself and the tender up a 6% grade. (gears not only split, but broken in pieces)
my stainzes (i got more than one) on my last layout - in tandem, or with a motorized LGB tender - did draw five feet of roling stock up 6% grades. (either five four-wheeled cars, or four cars on trucks, or combinations)
but...
the stainzes and the motorized tenders were weighted to a total of about five pound each.
(the older LGBs with their Buhler motors can cope with this type of abuse. other brands might be less forgiving)



but the idea of a single loco drawing eight cars at 4% sounds very ambitious to me.

on a former layout i had 5% grades. a single stainz (weighted to 5 pound) could draw 3 or 4 cars (4-wheeled) up that grade.

8 cars for larger locomotives like a Garratt or Mallet
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update we are currently attempting to find solutions for the grade issue it looks like raising the west loop up by about a foot to reduce the grade
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Definitely add the LGB powered tender to the stainz, and add weight to both. Plus add the cable to share track power between the engine and tender!! You could get the USA trains docksider to pull cars also, a very heavy small engine.
We will be using battery power not track power also i already have a docksider from Piko see
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Yep, even on new ones off the shelf. That one is split so bad, I'd get new axles.

I cannot emphasize enough the proper orientation of the brass bushings upon assembly. You can destroy a new axle gear in a few minutes.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yep, even on new ones off the shelf. That one is split so bad, I'd get new axles.

I cannot emphasize enough the proper orientation of the brass bushings upon assembly. You can destroy a new axle gear in a few minutes.

Greg
brass brushings?
 
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