I got a Aristo-Craft WP box car a couple of days ago but it got some bad sun fade on it and I would appreciate it if anyone know how to fix the sun fade. Thanks and have a great day.
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How to get rid of sun fade on a train car?
TrainManiac
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I have no trains with a plastic automotive dashboard... not relevant...
Clearly you hate armorall...
And still not being helpful to the OP
Clearly you hate armorall...
And still not being helpful to the OP
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Clearly fr8train T was being helpful to the OP by recommending Krylon clear coat, someone needs to learn to read. I really don't know who in their right mind would use Armorall on a model train, I know I wouldn't. Also for someone to get so upset over someone not recommending the use of Armorall on trains has some serious issues.
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Thanks Dachshund Tim.
I buy ArmorAll by the gallon and have applied it to the tires of my vehicles for the past 38 years and I am very familiar with its properties. I even ArmorAll the tires on my bicycle and lawn mower. Maybe I could start to ArmorAll the tires on the diecast vehicles on my layout????
I buy ArmorAll by the gallon and have applied it to the tires of my vehicles for the past 38 years and I am very familiar with its properties. I even ArmorAll the tires on my bicycle and lawn mower. Maybe I could start to ArmorAll the tires on the diecast vehicles on my layout????
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I've brought paint back for more than 10 years on TRAINS, not tires, etc.
You, with no experience doing exactly this, are arguing.
I am done with you, and like DT, I will ignore your posts from now on.
Have a nice life.
You, with no experience doing exactly this, are arguing.
I am done with you, and like DT, I will ignore your posts from now on.
Have a nice life.
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Another intoxicated post. I've must have hit the SAP button because, again, your post is not understandable. I hope you can get out from in front of your computer and experience life, outside, with other humans.
I will heed my own advice:
Never argue with a fool, onlookers may not be able to tell the difference.
I will heed my own advice:
Never argue with a fool, onlookers may not be able to tell the difference.
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Hey guys so um you guys are both right no need to fight. Both of those have their positives and negatives. I think I will use both over time, but for this car I will stick with Armorall. Trains or not all the posts can and will help me and others so please don't argue. Thanks for all the help Greg and fr8train. Thanks and have a great day.
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He reminds me of a 2 year old hitting the ground and having a tantrum, arms flailing and feet kicking. One thing you'll always have on forums is the person who always thinks they know more than anyone else and what they say is gospel even when they're wrong.
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True.
"Those of you who think you know everything are very annoying to those of us who do" -Ben Franklin 😉
"Those of you who think you know everything are very annoying to those of us who do" -Ben Franklin 😉
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You can't get rid f the sun fade. You just have to deal with it.
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Baloney, it's an oxidized layer of paint... done on on multiple locos and rolling stock.
Where are all these experts with no experience coming from?
Where are all these experts with no experience coming from?
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Tommy98466,
That is partially true. If you use a high fade color like red as an example, once it is faded, the only real way to bring the color back completely is to repaint it. The suggestions made in this thread are simple ways to rejuvenate the paint without all that is involved with a repaint. The colors in the red spectrum are the most likely to fade before other colors.
I have a red Aristo caboose on my layout that is used as an office that I treat with the Krylon UV clear mentioned above about every three years. When first applied, it looks almost new but the sun works on it and it will start to fade again. It is a losing battle running trains outdoors but worth the fight.
That is partially true. If you use a high fade color like red as an example, once it is faded, the only real way to bring the color back completely is to repaint it. The suggestions made in this thread are simple ways to rejuvenate the paint without all that is involved with a repaint. The colors in the red spectrum are the most likely to fade before other colors.
I have a red Aristo caboose on my layout that is used as an office that I treat with the Krylon UV clear mentioned above about every three years. When first applied, it looks almost new but the sun works on it and it will start to fade again. It is a losing battle running trains outdoors but worth the fight.
To me, I love sun faded cars. I do not want my cars to look like toys or new cars just out of the shop, I want them to look real. The matte finish spray is a bare minimum effort to make the cars look real, knock down that toy looking shine. Real cars can be sun faded. A sun faded car is a great start for a weathering project and I love weathered cars. That is part of what got me into G railroading many years ago, saw a weathered G car being ran on a layout at a Christmas flea market and it looked kinda like a real car shrunk down and I got interested in doing it for myself. The rest of the cars being ran had no weathering and the difference was stunning (unweathered cars looked bad in comparison).
Some years ago, bought a Bachmann tipper ore car that had been in a hobby shop window for some years and had faded and also got a sag on one side on the tub from all the sun. Made it look like some damage from use. Made a good custom car candidate.
I guess i should suggest that you guys stick to your pristine cars and save the faded and abused ones for me.
Doug
Some years ago, bought a Bachmann tipper ore car that had been in a hobby shop window for some years and had faded and also got a sag on one side on the tub from all the sun. Made it look like some damage from use. Made a good custom car candidate.
I guess i should suggest that you guys stick to your pristine cars and save the faded and abused ones for me.
Doug
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Well I was going to try to fix the sun fade on the one side so that they were a bit more even, then I will weather all of my equipment when I get the time and money. I have a few beat up cars too.
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Oh that leads me to my next question. What kind of weathering (paint, powder,...) have you guys have had good experiences with?
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bmwr71,
I agree with you about the realism of a faded and worn car. I have weathered many pieces of my rolling stock to achieve that "look". The OP asked how he could correct the fade and suggestions were made. One of the great things about this hobby is being able to have your railroad your way. Some people like the "new" look and others the weathered look. It comes down to a person's ability and what makes them happy.
TrainManiac,
That is a topic that I'm sure has been covered in this forum. Have you tried entering weathering in the search box? Be ready for a Pandora's box of answers.
One of the products I have had great results with is Doc O'Briens weathering powders. Available through Micro-Mark :Weathering Powders 12 Pack | Modeling Effects Kit | Micro-Mark
I agree with you about the realism of a faded and worn car. I have weathered many pieces of my rolling stock to achieve that "look". The OP asked how he could correct the fade and suggestions were made. One of the great things about this hobby is being able to have your railroad your way. Some people like the "new" look and others the weathered look. It comes down to a person's ability and what makes them happy.
TrainManiac,
That is a topic that I'm sure has been covered in this forum. Have you tried entering weathering in the search box? Be ready for a Pandora's box of answers.
One of the products I have had great results with is Doc O'Briens weathering powders. Available through Micro-Mark :Weathering Powders 12 Pack | Modeling Effects Kit | Micro-Mark
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Yeah I love the look of old equipment I just need to get around to weather them. Thanks for the weathering suggestion. I will look around for some more weathering techniques. I have done quite a bit of weathering on the smaller scale and tanks.
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I agree somepeople are so pious in ther belief it is hard to understand where dashboards came from. We are talking Armour All on plastics. He was the only one worried about dashboard comparisions eh
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In fairness, there were dashboards that did not work well with Armorall 20 years ago, and every once in a blue moon I have found plastics that get less pliable with Armorall (I tried it on a vacuum cleaner hose that I bought in 1985)
But as I said, I have not installed any old car dashboards in any of my G Scale locomotives... again old biases die hard...
On an up note, I restored the faded red nose on several USA Trains Santa Fe warbonnets (red paint typically is the worst in fading) maybe 10 years ago, and they still look fine.
But as I said, I have not installed any old car dashboards in any of my G Scale locomotives... again old biases die hard...
On an up note, I restored the faded red nose on several USA Trains Santa Fe warbonnets (red paint typically is the worst in fading) maybe 10 years ago, and they still look fine.
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About a yr. ago, I stumbled across an alternative to Armorall.
'AutoGlym (Vinyl/Rubber vers.) '
Have yet to simulate a fresh paintshop visit of any rolling stock within my G-gauge world', .... but in proto' world just about anything primarily outdoors , including under the hood ! ;-)
'AutoGlym (Vinyl/Rubber vers.) '
Have yet to simulate a fresh paintshop visit of any rolling stock within my G-gauge world', .... but in proto' world just about anything primarily outdoors , including under the hood ! ;-)
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