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Discussion Starter · #21 ·


Ok, I made four and found a problem in that the wheels don't run true and as such, they get loose and tight about the contacts enough to cause loss of contact then bind during a rotation.

So, I'll try to use thinner, and much more flexible, copper "extensions" keeping the brass for thickness in the center to keep things inplace. The extensions can then be bent out a bit to contact the inner wheel and will flex with runout rather than bind up the axle.

I also ordered a gear puller that I should be able to use to better distance and plane the wheels to the motor blocks reducing runout so that they run truer to stay in contact with the pickups. I should be able to do this only removing the sideframes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
This is what I've found to work in gauging the FA/FB wheel sets. This may also work on other engines.

I used a Dremel to cut slots to the center of two fat fender washers and these serve as spacers during the "big squeeze." The tape serves both as a shim to get the gauge right, and as a means to pull the washers out once the wheels are in gauge. You don't even have to remove the trucks, just undo the sideframes and let them flop to the sides during this operation.

If the wheels are to tight, move the closer one out a hair using a couple flat bladed screwdrivers to pry against the motor block then drop in the spacers and do the squeeze.


 
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