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How do you run your wiring /pneumatics

312 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Greg Elmassian
After nearly a year of landscaping and retention wall building, I'm finally ready to start laying roadbed and track. It occurred to me that I never asked this question. How do you guys run your wiring and pneumatic tubing in the garden? I'm sure there are several options, just curious what people have learned about this topic. I will have tubing for turnout control, wiring for track power and wiring for signals.
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Wiring depends on how you run your trains. DC and DCC need good power distribution and is dependent on current draw. The bigger the RR and the bigger the engines require bigger wire and multiple feeds. I do not run 'big' current for my DC and DCC trains. I do run #14 UV outdoor wire (read 12 volt yard lighting) wire and it suits my needs which are mostly LGB single motor engines on 3 separate tracks. I do have 3 feeders on my big loop, only one feeder on my small loops. Big loop is 12 foot diameter track, small loop for 2 axle engines are 4 foot diameter.
I just bury the tubing in ballast, I buy the black or brown, no issue.

Wiring, I run conduit paralleling the main line.

I run a segment, and use a curved "sweep" to bring it to the surface, then start another run:



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Greg
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Greg, thanks for the answer. I should have been more specific Dan. I have the logistics all planned out already as far as control and power etc. All my engines are remote control with modified RCS and Micron RXs powered by onboard Li-Fe PO4 batteries on which charge from the rails via one single block of AC powered tack. I'll have 14 gauge landscape wiring running to several places along the line.

I'm just asking about the specific way you run the wires and tubing in the garden itself. Do you run it shortest distance in a straight line or along the right of way. Direct bury or in conduit. How do you deal with changes?

Greg, do you bury the tubing in the loose ballast just on top of your compacted sub roadbed or further down like under the track?
Uhh, the conduit is about a foot down, and being close to the rails, no problem... it's big enough to run a separate direct run to each power district. I run DCC and the feeds are 10 gauge...

I bury the pneumatics under just a few inches of ballast near the rails... all my ballast is loose, it's large gravel, over scale but works well and does not shift.

(scale ballast must be glued in place... reason: a real raindrop is about 8" in 1:29, so scale ballast cannot really withstand prototype 1:1 nature alone)

Since I have DCC, no other wiring is needed, since I have basically 20 amps AC available everywhere and a control system "embedded" in the power.

(you can look around my site for more on construction, there are 750 individual pages on the site)

Greg
Uhh, the conduit is about a foot down, and being close to the rails, no problem... it's big enough to run a separate direct run to each power district. I run DCC and the feeds are 10 gauge...

I bury the pneumatics under just a few inches of ballast near the rails... all my ballast is loose, it's large gravel, over scale but works well and does not shift.

(scale ballast must be glued in place... reason: a real raindrop is about 8" in 1:29, so scale ballast cannot really withstand prototype 1:1 nature alone)

Since I have DCC, no other wiring is needed, since I have basically 20 amps AC available everywhere and a control system "embedded" in the power.

(you can look around my site for more on construction, there are 750 individual pages on the site)

Greg
Hi Greg, Some time I discovered your website and your interest in air motors and pneumatics for model railroads.
I have a large group of Del-Aire and EZair components that I bought some years ago from Stretch Manley at CC&O Ry for an indoor G scale layout I planned but never got to build due to a lack of space for a large scale layout at the home we bought upon my retirement. They include actuators, 400 feet of tubing, toggle valves, throttle valves, diverter valves, a selector valve and a shuttle valve, brass barbs, tees, elbows, a regulator, various brass connectors, etc. None of the components were ever used and all but a couple are still in their original unopened packaging. I’ve attached a list below.I will need to sell them as a complete group. Please let me know if you might be interested.


Del-AirePartCount
03-specialElbows 1/16 ID pkg 5
1​
006Sleeve coupling female to 1/4 FNPT
1​
007Coup. Nipple- male to 1/8MNPT
1​
025Tube reducer 1/8MNPT-Barb
1​
MISCbrass pipe nipple
1​
014Regulator and Gauge
1​
030Air Toggle
26​
035Manifold 4 Station
1​
036Manifold 8 Station
1​
039Barb Tees Package of 5
4​
049 UTUnder-Table Mount Air Motor w/Integral .055 Linkage for S, O Hi-Rail/Scale, G, #1 Gauge
24​
043UTUnder-Table Mount Air Motor w/Integral .055 Linkage for N, H0n3,HO,TT,Sn3,On3,S Scale
2​
052Tubing 200' brown
E-ZAir
EZ650Toggle Mount Throttle Valve
4​
EZ640Shuttle Valve
1​
EZ630Diverter Valve
2​
EZ620Selector Valve
1​
EZ60035 micron filter
1​
EZ402WTubing 200’ white
1​
210KBarb Plug, black nylon (5)
1​
EZ262Manifold 12 station
1​
Llagas Creek(sold by CC&O RY)
0426-DMMKDel-Aire Motor Mount and Motor Kit
7​
Sunset ValleyBrass barb plugs
6​
Brass adapter set (1/6 in barb on 1/8 in male NPT and 1/4 male NPT)
2​
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Thanks but I don't prefer the del-aire motors, and I use electronic solenoids to control the air so the nice air toggles would not be needed. Your parts are great for an indoor layout and/or a smaller scale and/or where someone wanted manual control (which does save a lot of $$).

Thanks, Greg
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