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I am trying to install an AirWire G4 Decoder along with Phoenix P8 Sound in an Aristocraft FA1 and there are basically no instructions on how to do it. I have the G4 book and P8 book with the diagrams, etc. I can deduce some of it but there's a lot I'm unsure of, where to mount the stuff, what to take out and what to leave, what to tie together, etc.
61849
. I wondered if there was anyone who has done it that as a step by step guide on what to do. I also have a PB1 to go with it but I'm not seeing an easy way to link the two together. Is the most common thing to just put a whole other system in the B unit even though it will always be run with the A? Thanks for the help.
 

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I am trying to install an AirWire G4 Decoder along with Phoenix P8 Sound in an Aristocraft FA1 and there are basically no instructions on how to do it. I have the G4 book and P8 book with the diagrams, etc. I can deduce some of it but there's a lot I'm unsure of, where to mount the stuff, what to take out and what to leave, what to tie together, etc. View attachment 61849 . I wondered if there was anyone who has done it that as a step by step guide on what to do. I also have a PB1 to go with it but I'm not seeing an easy way to link the two together. Is the most common thing to just put a whole other system in the B unit even though it will always be run with the A? Thanks for the help.
Actually, I think the AW instructions are pretty clear on connecting the P8. You will have digtal contol of the sound functions. Power the motors from the indicated treminals. I would forget the smoke.
 

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Right now I have everything mounted about the only way I can figure out. There's a good size weight in the fuel tank but I'm not seeing a benefit of taking it out as the speaker won't fit in there and the battery provided isn't all that heavy and don't want to lose pulling power. But I have a DPDT switch I got with the kit, 1 pair of wires for the charging jack, middle pair is the plug to the battery & another set of bare wires presumably to the G4X but in another diagram it shows a wire(s) from the DPDT to the SPDT Momentary switch of the P8 (unless it's not supposed to be momentary but that's what it came with). The motors are connected & both work in the same direction. But this FA also has apparently a Mars light w/ 2 lights blinking on-off to simulate it. Coupled with a cab light and another light and I have 3 wires coming from the cab that are all for lights. Do I just forget about the Mars light feature, figure out which is the ground and wire the other 2 together? The guy I'm doing this for wants the smoke unit to work. There's an additional wiring harness with 4 wires w/ a female & male end I'm not sure what it's for either. Thanks.
 

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Another way in the future is too install a 6 amp DCC decoder in the A unit and wire both the A and B units to one decoder/airwire DCC receiver. Note Zimo has a 6 amp (10 amp surge) decoder with 2 speaker outputs coming to market.
 

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This might be time to learn basic electrical skills, how to use a meter to determine wiring, and what polarity a common is in your decoder, etc.

Very few step by step recipes exist... one reason is if you provide one, and something breaks, the owner of the broken loco will spend a lifetime saying how you done him wrong. (I have seen example after example, this is why I never charge for installations, and only do them for close friends).

Another reason is that if something does not work right, you are now stuck trying to debug a wiring error (either by the new installer or the manufacturer)... without a basic understanding you will have a hard time.

This is why professional installers exist.

Not what you want to hear, but other than a good samaritan who will take you by the hand from start to finish, your options are learn or pay.

Greg
 

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I am trying to install an AirWire G4 Decoder along with Phoenix P8 Sound in an Aristocraft FA1 and there are basically no instructions on how to do it. I have the G4 book and P8 book with the diagrams, etc. I can deduce some of it but there's a lot I'm unsure of, where to mount the stuff, what to take out and what to leave, what to tie together, etc. View attachment 61849 . I wondered if there was anyone who has done it that as a step by step guide on what to do. I also have a PB1 to go with it but I'm not seeing an easy way to link the two together. Is the most common thing to just put a whole other system in the B unit even though it will always be run with the A? Thanks for the help.
I recently put a G4 and P8 into a Bachmann 3 truck shay. There only two wires going from the P8 to the G4.
I relied on the wiring diagram for the engine quite a bit. I removed the Bachmann circuit by cutting and lableing the wires. It is very important to label the wires because you need to put the wires in the correct place on the G4. The hand book shows what connection go where. You should have the wiring diagram to identify the engines wires if you do what I did. The P8 handbook shows where to connect it to the G4, it shows a G3 but the connection is the same.

So if you are replacing a circuit board, you should have a wiring diagram to identify and label what wire is it is and find where the go on the G4 using the G4 handbook.

Before I did anything, I drew a diagram of the Bachmann wiring and where the go on the G4. I knew what I was going to do before I started. I used the Bachmann wiring diagram and the G4 hand book to draw my diagram. They both labeled the wires and it was just matching them up the wire and connection.

I hope that helps. I will look out for any other questions
 

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This might be time to learn basic electrical skills, how to use a meter to determine wiring, and what polarity a common is in your decoder, etc.

Very few step by step recipes exist... one reason is if you provide one, and something breaks, the owner of the broken loco will spend a lifetime saying how you done him wrong. (I have seen example after example, this is why I never charge for installations, and only do them for close friends).

Another reason is that if something does not work right, you are now stuck trying to debug a wiring error (either by the new installer or the manufacturer)... without a basic understanding you will have a hard time.

This is why professional installers exist.

Not what you want to hear, but other than a good samaritan who will take you by the hand from start to finish, your options are learn or pay.

Greg
I am trying to install an AirWire G4 Decoder along with Phoenix P8 Sound in an Aristocraft FA1 and there are basically no instructions on how to do it. I have the G4 book and P8 book with the diagrams, etc. I can deduce some of it but there's a lot I'm unsure of, where to mount the stuff, what to take out and what to leave, what to tie together, etc. View attachment 61849 . I wondered if there was anyone who has done it that as a step by step guide on what to do. I also have a PB1 to go with it but I'm not seeing an easy way to link the two together. Is the most common thing to just put a whole other system in the B unit even though it will always be run with the A? Thanks for the help.
You have to put the Battery and speaker and the circuit boards where there is room. On my shay the battery and speaker is in the water tender and the G4 and P8 are in the engine. You can connect your two engines together with mini connectors.
 

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This might be time to learn basic electrical skills, how to use a meter to determine wiring, and what polarity a common is in your decoder, etc.

Very few step by step recipes exist... one reason is if you provide one, and something breaks, the owner of the broken loco will spend a lifetime saying how you done him wrong. (I have seen example after example, this is why I never charge for installations, and only do them for close friends).

Another reason is that if something does not work right, you are now stuck trying to debug a wiring error (either by the new installer or the manufacturer)... without a basic understanding you will have a hard time.

This is why professional installers exist.

Not what you want to hear, but other than a good samaritan who will take you by the hand from start to finish, your options are learn or pay.

Greg
Greg,
I was in the same place Fred is with my shay. I planned what I was going to do before I did anything. Fred could start a plan, and fill in what he doesn't know when he learns it. That's how I learned. I read the manuals and check the chat boards like this.
 

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The information needed is here: Aristo FA-1 Tips

But again you will need a basic knowledge of electronics in my opinion.

Hook up wires without testing is a recipe for disaster in my opinion.

Remember what was asked: "I wondered if there was anyone who has done it that as a step by step guide on what to do. "

Greg
 

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The information needed is here: Aristo FA-1 Tips

But again you will need a basic knowledge of electronics in my opinion.

Hook up wires without testing is a recipe for disaster in my opinion.

Remember what was asked: "I wondered if there was anyone who has done it that as a step by step guide on what to do. "

Greg
I'm good with that. I was a radar repairman in the Army. I guess some times I assume people know what I do.
 

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I'm posting for the OP Fred L. ;)

rcochran: from your posting, I can see you only need a schematic, and can probably work backwards to create one if needed.

Fred: from George's page, I think you can see what is going on, there's a bunch of wires to support the switches in the back. You will have to figure out the lights too, as often Aristo uses a regulator to get to 5 volts. Probably ignore the lights, get the Airwire running the motor, then add the sound system, and then probably swap out the lamps for LEDs.

A bit of advice is contained above, do the install in stages, don't try to to motor, sound lights all at once and then turn it on. That approach often lets out the magic smoke!


Greg
 

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My test track has a 30 ohm 3 watt resistor in series with the DCC connection with a switch to short out the resistor. I always just wire the input power and motor first using the resistor to limit my current to be below 1 amp and verify connecrtions for DC and DCC operation. Then I start on the lights.
 

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I test on the programming track, if the motor "burps" as I program CV's, it's almost for sure no motor issues on the main.

Since voltage and current is normally limited on the programming track, it's a safe way, and sort of forces you to check the decoder operation.

Greg
 
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